Help getting an aquarium established?

I'm starting off on the great adventure of having a fish aquarium. And I definitely need help.





I have an old 10-gallon aquarium. Once I clean it out and replace the substrate, I plan on starting a fishless cycle to make my water safe for fish (no ammonia, no nitrites, low nitrates). I will be having tropical fish, so I will keep the aquarium at about 78掳F-80掳F. I will be using those glass beads as substrate because I do not want the Java Moss I'm planning on putting in to attach to the substrate. Instead, I want it to attach to some driftwood or some such unit that is easier to maintain. Our tap water comes from wells, and the water softener that it runs through adds non-iodized salt to the water (which starts at about 15 grains hard) at slightly less than 1 teaspoon every two gallons. So I shouldn't have to worry about Chlorine or Chloramine, and the water conditions should be excellent.





Once my water has cycled, I plan on adding one Siamese Fighting Fish (Betta), and two Glass Catfish to start. Maybe more compatible fish later on, though not exceeding 1 inch of fish for every gallon of water in the tank.





So if there's anything wrong with that plan, will somebody please point it out to me?





A few questions now:





-What is a suitable heating unit to keep in the tank? It would be nice if the heat output could be controlled, as the temperatures here fluctuate pretty regularly.


-What is a good filter to put into the tank? I'm on a budget, so less expensive is better. Also, from what I understand, a sponge filter is preferable, as it really helps establish and maintain a good bio-filtration system because it provides a good place for the bacteria to live.


-What kind of airflow do I need to worry about for oxygen purposes? Will a filter take care of that for me?


-What device or kit can I buy that will test the Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate levels (and maybe pH) of the water? I would prefer one that does not rely on disposable chemicals, because I want to keep very careful track of my water conditions. So an electronic one with theoretically infinite uses would be best. Although, again, I'm on a fairly strict budget.





I think that's all. Congratulations if you made it all the way through reading that. Best answer will get 10 points, I wish I could award more.|||One inch of fish per gallon, is not correct.


What I do when finding and setting up tanks, is find the amount of space each fish needs and then basically add it together.


Or go on aqadvisor, they have a fish calculator which calculates how many fish, and what tank size you need.





If you get a sponge filter, you don't need a second air output.


Sponge filters are cheap, and easily cleaned and maintained.


All you do is hook it up to an airpump, air runs through, and out creating bubbles from a tube in the top.


It doesn't pull in too much gunk though, but it is good for maintaining good bacteria.





You can also make your own filter, just look it up on youtube, all you need is a few things, and a air pump.





API test kits are good, but it is up to you.





Most heaters will have a changable heat temp, just place it near your filter and it should get good even heat throughout the tank.





Good luck!|||Here is a link for a test kit that will do all of those, use will be about 130 tests, $6.27 but the only way to get an infinite # of tests is the electronic which cost alot more about $60 to $80 each test.Any heater should maintain it's set temperature a submersible one will ensure water level does not make it fluctuate. Sponge filter is best and should cost about $6-$10 it will also pump oxygen into the tank for your catfish, betta breathes from the surface so this the air is not needed for him. Bettas prefer placid water so I recommend an air valve diffuser on your air pump hose which will be connected to your sponge filter to slow down air flow and water movement. I always recommend Tetra BlackWater Extract for Betta's it will be fine for your catfish too who also like brackish water which this will simulate, you can buy it on line by Tetra or Kent. Hope this helps Good Luck with your tank =)|||probly a typical 50W heater would do it (if the temp in your house can go down to as low as 50 i would advise a 75W instead), ones made nowadays have a temp control integrated in them





all filters save the same exact purpose, sponge filters are about as efficient as hob





in a tank that small the filter will take the care of the oxidation





glass catfish needs a minimum of 30 gallons





here's a list of what can go into 10 gals (not too many species):


http://theaquariumwiki.com/Stocking_a_10鈥?/a>|||Okay, first of all, you CAN NOT put a betta with ANY other fish. (note the name "fighting fish") it will kill anything you put with it. Next, you have to have somethingliving in the tank to start the cycle. If i were you, i would get a fist fish that i wouldn't mind not to keep, i recomend any type of feeder fish your local store carries. After about a week with the feeders, you can add your catfish and something besides a betta. I recomend cardinal or neon tetras or danios. Remember to be patient in adding and picking fish, and read any info about the fish you want to buy on the tag with it's description. I don't think you'll have much water trouble, but you should get some water conditioner anyways. As for heating, a small 20 dollar unit should do fine, and it's easy to find an adjustable one. Bio filtration is really good, but as you're on a budget and have a small tank, a simple Topfin or Whisper filter with adjustable suction force (set pretty low) and a carbon filter cartrage would probably be best. A filter with an above water output airates water extra well, and even without that it'll be fine, but you could leave the lid propped open just barely if it would make you feel better. As for the chemical testing, most pet stores carry all-in-one kits. They are simple little strips with color matching charts on the bottle or box. I use Jungle ones, and they work well, just note that any test strip will be skewed if you are treating your tank for an illness (meds mess up tests). I don't think java ferns will attach to driftwood very well, so i dont recomend it. Marbles could be an okay substrate, but course gravel is better. Gravel is actually pretty low maintanence, all you need is a siphon-vac. Just dodge plants when you clean the tank and your good. Marbles you have to dump out every once in a while to clean. Sorry for the long answer, but I hope it helps.|||Filter: Simple outside filter. Clean regularly, but only rinse the charcoal in cold water and use for a couple times. Do not clean the housing of the filter.


Substrate: You can use the glass beads or you can use very fine white silica sand. This keeps the dirt from getting caught underneath the substrate. Siphon about 15% of the water off the bottom each week or two. Chlorine drops for new water.


Heater: Just one that is suited for the size tank you have.


Fish: Bettas can get a little boring, even though they are pretty. Only one male. Or get: Angel Fish, Silver Dollar, Tetra fish. These are easy to keep and interesting.


Water: You might see if someone you know has a tank and you can take some of their water to help it start out. Set up as directed in books or by your local pet store. Have some of your tap water checked for sodium content by your local pet supply store. No all fish like sodium in their water. Perhaps you can use some spring water if the store says this is O.K.





By the way, Bettas don't kill any other fish and are actually rather placid. They will kill each other and it is inhumane to keep them in a tank with more than one male Betta, together. They are very slow swimmers and prefer smaller spaces. Then can tend to look a bit lost in most tanks and may even take to sitting in the bottom. You might begin to say, "Poor little fish, are you O.K.?" A larger fish bowl or extremely quiet tank is preferable for Bettas.