I have an AC unit [looks similar to this]
http://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-FAC126P1A-Conditioner-Electronic-Controls/dp/B000Q7IGX0
The bottom has a metal bracket that goes along the AC unit and the top does too. I have the top one in FRONT of the window thats down, and the bottom metal lip bracket thing is BEHIND the bottom of the window. Is this correct? It's level and doesn't look unsafe but I wasn't sure if this is correct or if I should have the bottom one in front as well.|||The top stays on the inside and the bottom goes on the outside|||This is the correct and most stable way to install a window AC whether it was the way the manufacturer intended it to be installed that way or not.
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Can I make an Insurance claim against the owner of a car Impound?
My car was written off in an accident and taken to a secure Impound.
Before I signed the car off I went to the pound to pick up my belongings only to discover that someone had cut the wires and stolen my Sym-Tech electronic corrosion control.
My Insurance company paid me $300 for the unit but as it cost me $750 I wondered if I could make a claim against the owner of the car Impound as I think it was someone from his pound that took it.|||No, you already accepted compensation for the value of the unit. You can't double dip. It doesn't matter how much you paid; compensation is based on the current value of the property.|||You have no proof that the unit even existed. Call the police, report the crime. They can do nothing without evidence.
You cannot sue (even if you could prove where it went) because it was insured, you were paid the full market value (not the original price)|||Once your claim is final-you can't make any other claims. Besides, why make your insurance company pay more because you got duped on the 21st Century version of rust protection? The best rust protection is getting your car washed underneath every now and then.
Before I signed the car off I went to the pound to pick up my belongings only to discover that someone had cut the wires and stolen my Sym-Tech electronic corrosion control.
My Insurance company paid me $300 for the unit but as it cost me $750 I wondered if I could make a claim against the owner of the car Impound as I think it was someone from his pound that took it.|||No, you already accepted compensation for the value of the unit. You can't double dip. It doesn't matter how much you paid; compensation is based on the current value of the property.|||You have no proof that the unit even existed. Call the police, report the crime. They can do nothing without evidence.
You cannot sue (even if you could prove where it went) because it was insured, you were paid the full market value (not the original price)|||Once your claim is final-you can't make any other claims. Besides, why make your insurance company pay more because you got duped on the 21st Century version of rust protection? The best rust protection is getting your car washed underneath every now and then.
Does my "details" column answer this Question??Write detailed specifications for buying a good computer?
A computer, also called a processor, is an electronic device designed to accept data, perform prescribed mathematical and logical operations at high speed, and display the results of these operations. The main job of a computer is to process data we put in, then either store it or release it as an output for us.
There are three main components of a computer; Hardware, which is the associated physical equipment directly involved in the performance of data-processing or communications functions, Software, which are the programs used to direct the operation of a computer, as well as documentation and Users, who are people that use the software on a computer for various tasks according to their needs.
There are various types of computers, but when one wants to buy a computer for individual use, they should buy a Personal computer (PC). A personal computer is a small computer that can be used independently by an individual user for word-processing, games, e-mail or storage of information. These computers are the kind for everyday use that can be set on a desk, they are very popular. Personal computers range in prices depending on storage and processing abilities and speed. The major components of a PC are:
-system unit (physical apparatus) which consist of the desktop (screen) and the tower (that contains the CPU, RAM, power supply, hard disks and all the slots for connecting all the other components).
- A series of input and output devices and peripherals.
Every pc has a central processing unit (CPU). A CPU is a chip called a microprocessor that鈥檚 job is to perform computer processing done by following the instructions of the software or programs to process data and produce information. Every PC has at least one CPU located on the motherboard, which connects all the parts of the computer together. A CPU is also divided into more main parts; ALU, registers or immediate access memory and Control unit. The Control unit directs electronic signals between the main memory and the input and output devices. Input devices allow one to put information into the computer. Some of the many input devices needed for a good computer are a keyboard, Mouse (either laser or ball), a trackball, a touchpad, a touch screen, a light pen, a scanner, a joystick, a microphone, disk drives (including CD-ROMs, DVD-ROMs, floppy disk), a Digital camera and a Video camera. Output devices allow you to view information on your PC or extract information from your PC. Some of the most important products needed in order to be able to see things on your computer screen to the best of your ability are VDU (video display units, or monitors). These monitors allow the work being done on the computer to be displayed, as well as the results of processing, displaying texts, graphics and image forms. The best type of monitor for your personal computer is a flat screen, or flat panel display. This type of monitor is most popular these days. The characteristics of these monitors are color, size and resolution. The more colors it has the better the clarity of the images on your PC will be. The bigger your screen is, the better you will be able to do your work (most screens currently are about 17鈥欌€?to 21鈥欌€?. The higher the resolution, the better quality and clarity of the display or screen will be. The LED Displays (light emitting diodes) is the light that turns on when you press the button to start the computer, this feature is also important in figuring out when there is a problem; the light will trigger a specific flicker showing the presence of an error. Another output device important for a good home computer is a printer. The kinds of printers vary, but the best kind of printer for a personal computer is the colored laser printer. This printer, though expensive, can produce a variety of images and texts. Speakers (or headphones) are another feature that is available for a PC in order for the user to be able to hear sounds. Yet another feature is the removable media devices used to transfer data or documents onto other devices. Examples of these devices are CD-writers, DVD-writers or USB- flash memory cards. Of the devices that are considered both input and output devices are modems and speech synthesizers. Modems are important for access to the internet, the World Wide Web, which connects users to people from all over the world. Each of these devices (both input and output) will allow you to use your personal computer to the best of its ability. It is also important that one buy a good brand name of each of these devices as well as the computer itself, in order to assure warranty and to have the best products available.|||i think that your document here does a good job of detailing what you can expect in any good computer. keep in mind who your audience is, the reader of this may not understand all the terms, you may want to consider rewording some of the more technical parts. for even more help, you may want to post this quesiton in the "education %26amp; reference" section.
There are three main components of a computer; Hardware, which is the associated physical equipment directly involved in the performance of data-processing or communications functions, Software, which are the programs used to direct the operation of a computer, as well as documentation and Users, who are people that use the software on a computer for various tasks according to their needs.
There are various types of computers, but when one wants to buy a computer for individual use, they should buy a Personal computer (PC). A personal computer is a small computer that can be used independently by an individual user for word-processing, games, e-mail or storage of information. These computers are the kind for everyday use that can be set on a desk, they are very popular. Personal computers range in prices depending on storage and processing abilities and speed. The major components of a PC are:
-system unit (physical apparatus) which consist of the desktop (screen) and the tower (that contains the CPU, RAM, power supply, hard disks and all the slots for connecting all the other components).
- A series of input and output devices and peripherals.
Every pc has a central processing unit (CPU). A CPU is a chip called a microprocessor that鈥檚 job is to perform computer processing done by following the instructions of the software or programs to process data and produce information. Every PC has at least one CPU located on the motherboard, which connects all the parts of the computer together. A CPU is also divided into more main parts; ALU, registers or immediate access memory and Control unit. The Control unit directs electronic signals between the main memory and the input and output devices. Input devices allow one to put information into the computer. Some of the many input devices needed for a good computer are a keyboard, Mouse (either laser or ball), a trackball, a touchpad, a touch screen, a light pen, a scanner, a joystick, a microphone, disk drives (including CD-ROMs, DVD-ROMs, floppy disk), a Digital camera and a Video camera. Output devices allow you to view information on your PC or extract information from your PC. Some of the most important products needed in order to be able to see things on your computer screen to the best of your ability are VDU (video display units, or monitors). These monitors allow the work being done on the computer to be displayed, as well as the results of processing, displaying texts, graphics and image forms. The best type of monitor for your personal computer is a flat screen, or flat panel display. This type of monitor is most popular these days. The characteristics of these monitors are color, size and resolution. The more colors it has the better the clarity of the images on your PC will be. The bigger your screen is, the better you will be able to do your work (most screens currently are about 17鈥欌€?to 21鈥欌€?. The higher the resolution, the better quality and clarity of the display or screen will be. The LED Displays (light emitting diodes) is the light that turns on when you press the button to start the computer, this feature is also important in figuring out when there is a problem; the light will trigger a specific flicker showing the presence of an error. Another output device important for a good home computer is a printer. The kinds of printers vary, but the best kind of printer for a personal computer is the colored laser printer. This printer, though expensive, can produce a variety of images and texts. Speakers (or headphones) are another feature that is available for a PC in order for the user to be able to hear sounds. Yet another feature is the removable media devices used to transfer data or documents onto other devices. Examples of these devices are CD-writers, DVD-writers or USB- flash memory cards. Of the devices that are considered both input and output devices are modems and speech synthesizers. Modems are important for access to the internet, the World Wide Web, which connects users to people from all over the world. Each of these devices (both input and output) will allow you to use your personal computer to the best of its ability. It is also important that one buy a good brand name of each of these devices as well as the computer itself, in order to assure warranty and to have the best products available.|||i think that your document here does a good job of detailing what you can expect in any good computer. keep in mind who your audience is, the reader of this may not understand all the terms, you may want to consider rewording some of the more technical parts. for even more help, you may want to post this quesiton in the "education %26amp; reference" section.
My 84 Trans Am had some sort of electronic meltdown on me, I believe the main computer unit may be the culprit?
As I was driving to a friend's house and was exiting on the freeway my car randomly jumped up to 4,000 rpms for no reason when it was on cruise control until i tapped the brakes to take it off. After leaving about 6 hours later i made it to the freeway and when I tried to use the cruise control it didn't work. As I toggled with the switch for a minute the radio started turning on and off and eventually shut off completely. Somewhere during this I noticed my dash lights were noticeably dimmer than typical. As I drove along the engine started pulling strange and seemed to be pulsing and when I looked at my rpm gauge it was showing me driving at 4,500 rpm's at 60 mph, I tried switching from overdrive to drive and to neutral to change this but it would just keep jumping up when I got above 60. After about 10 miles of this on the freeway and burning about a quarter tank of gas in the meanwhile I pulled off on an exit to let the car settle for a few and see what happened. When I turned the car off I tested the radio and it worked but when I tried to turn the lights on the radio died. The turn signals don't pulse anymore but just stay on. And the radio wouldn't even stay on if I tried turning the heat on too. When I tried to restart the car it started to turn normally for a split second and then starting doing a quick clicking. My current theory right now is that either the Com or the alternator is the culprit. Can anyone add anything to this because when it comes to the electric/ computer side to cars I know very little.|||Sounds like you have a charging system problem, or a battery on the fritz. All of your symptoms sound like low voltage. In these late model computerized cars, they must have at least 12 volt input to function properly. Have the battery and charging system checked. I'm sure you will find the problem there.
Should I use a computer power supply to make a variable voltage supply for general electronic purposes?
I was considering splicing the 12VDC output of an old computer power supply unit into a voltage divider circuit with a pot as one of the dividers in order to control the output voltage. Is this feasible?|||This is not the best way because it only works with small loads.
Much better to use a voltage regulator. The circuit is simple with only a small number of components. Generally if you go to a store that sells electronic components (Radio Shack - US, Maplins - UK) someone there will draw the circuit and sell you the bits for small cost.|||Sure, one never trashes items like that especially if you like to hobby. You might watch the current as it should go up when the volts go down as a balance. Slowing current may make volts go up also depending on the device used.|||I think it is feasible, you can also get 5 VDC if you need to|||It is feasible, but to have a good quality power supply where the voltage is more or less independent of the load, you will have to use small resistor values for your divider. This way you will achieve low output impedance (good thing). But the small resistors will result in a lot of current being drawn and therefore a lot of power being wasted. So, make sure your resistors can take a lot of power.
If your application does not need a lot of current/power, then you may go ahead with this idea, but be aware of the above and also that it won't be a very efficient (power wise) supply.
Much better to use a voltage regulator. The circuit is simple with only a small number of components. Generally if you go to a store that sells electronic components (Radio Shack - US, Maplins - UK) someone there will draw the circuit and sell you the bits for small cost.|||Sure, one never trashes items like that especially if you like to hobby. You might watch the current as it should go up when the volts go down as a balance. Slowing current may make volts go up also depending on the device used.|||I think it is feasible, you can also get 5 VDC if you need to|||It is feasible, but to have a good quality power supply where the voltage is more or less independent of the load, you will have to use small resistor values for your divider. This way you will achieve low output impedance (good thing). But the small resistors will result in a lot of current being drawn and therefore a lot of power being wasted. So, make sure your resistors can take a lot of power.
If your application does not need a lot of current/power, then you may go ahead with this idea, but be aware of the above and also that it won't be a very efficient (power wise) supply.
Can anyone help me with these computer questions?
I can't find these answers anywhere in my text book! Can anyone hep me out, please!
True or Fase?
-The 2 primary sectins of the CPU are the ALU and the control unit.
Fill in the blank
-A(n) ________ is a board that contains electronic components.|||The answer to the first question is True.
Arithmetic Logic Unit (ALU), and Input/Output Control unit (I/O control).
A MAINBOARD is a board that contains electronic components.
(Mainboard is correct 'Computer Speak'. Motherboard is a slang term.
Should Mainboard be deemed incorrect, have this simpleton contact me via email here!)
|||first one is true, second one is well vague! it could be any component , as they all contain further components (except the smallest)
I mean the motherboard holds together all the components, but that grammatically doesn't fit into the question. (because only fools would use the word board twice in such a short string of text.
You should really just wiki pedia these kind of questions.
Id also say there is 3 primary sections the third being the pipelines, its great having an amazing pump (ALU - in this similie) but pretty pointless if you cant take the water no where (ie pipeline). Also known as Buses (yea like the ones that drive on the roads, see the relation?)
True or Fase?
-The 2 primary sectins of the CPU are the ALU and the control unit.
Fill in the blank
-A(n) ________ is a board that contains electronic components.|||The answer to the first question is True.
Arithmetic Logic Unit (ALU), and Input/Output Control unit (I/O control).
A MAINBOARD is a board that contains electronic components.
(Mainboard is correct 'Computer Speak'. Motherboard is a slang term.
Should Mainboard be deemed incorrect, have this simpleton contact me via email here!)
|||first one is true, second one is well vague! it could be any component , as they all contain further components (except the smallest)
I mean the motherboard holds together all the components, but that grammatically doesn't fit into the question. (because only fools would use the word board twice in such a short string of text.
You should really just wiki pedia these kind of questions.
Id also say there is 3 primary sections the third being the pipelines, its great having an amazing pump (ALU - in this similie) but pretty pointless if you cant take the water no where (ie pipeline). Also known as Buses (yea like the ones that drive on the roads, see the relation?)
I have Maruti 800 Bharat 2 car. It did not get started, what should I do ??
I have a maruti car. It is 2003 model. It is Bharat 2 with MPFI engine. It does not get started. One mechanic told me that the car has problem with its ECM (Electronic Control Module) unit. Please advise.|||Check if the battery is down. If its fine then better call up 24 hr helpline of maruti. That should be a safer option, than calling a road side mechanic, after all you have put some money in it and you should not loose it.|||The battery of car may be down/ defective.Start the ignition ,keep car in second gear, press clutch tell someone to push the car as soon car gains some speed release clutch. If the problem is with battery then this way car will start.If car does not starts then there is some other problem Check Fuel Pump also
Fuel type for Vw Polo 1.4 TDI 2001'?
I have Volkswagen 1.4 TDI 2001 y., with injection type; -{low
pressure fuel lift pump, underfloor fuel cooler; Pumpe D眉se
(PD) high pressure direct injection (with three camshaft
pressurized solenoid operated combustion chamber sited Unit
Injectors), Bosch EDC15P+ electronic engine control unit.} -
Please tell me do i can issue old type (Red) diesel fuel on
this engine without harm the engine or injector parts, or i
must to issue low on sulfur diesel fuel or sulfur free
diesel fuel?
I while appreciate your advice.|||There is a cleaner diesel available and Volkswagen in Europe has gone after going with higher fuel efficient and whats known ad blue diesel. Because its a 2001 TDI its meant to take regular diesel however using a diesel injector cleaner every 6-9 months wouldn't be a bad idea.
http://www.volkswagen.pe/html/volkswagen鈥?/a>|||in the US, red diesel is off-road (dyed) diesel.
you'll need diesel of 49 or higher cetane rating. TDI is designed for this|||Always use the diesel with the lowest sulfur level available.
pressure fuel lift pump, underfloor fuel cooler; Pumpe D眉se
(PD) high pressure direct injection (with three camshaft
pressurized solenoid operated combustion chamber sited Unit
Injectors), Bosch EDC15P+ electronic engine control unit.} -
Please tell me do i can issue old type (Red) diesel fuel on
this engine without harm the engine or injector parts, or i
must to issue low on sulfur diesel fuel or sulfur free
diesel fuel?
I while appreciate your advice.|||There is a cleaner diesel available and Volkswagen in Europe has gone after going with higher fuel efficient and whats known ad blue diesel. Because its a 2001 TDI its meant to take regular diesel however using a diesel injector cleaner every 6-9 months wouldn't be a bad idea.
http://www.volkswagen.pe/html/volkswagen鈥?/a>|||in the US, red diesel is off-road (dyed) diesel.
you'll need diesel of 49 or higher cetane rating. TDI is designed for this|||Always use the diesel with the lowest sulfur level available.
Is an automobile extended warranty worth getting?
My car is a 2001 Camaro Z28, it has 154,000 miles. this is what the offer covers at a price of $2,700 for 5 years or 150,000 miles, financed with 0% interest and no deductible. It covers me nationwide and free rental and towing.
ENGINE: All internal Components of the engine that require lubrication for operation. Oil pump (on select policies), Harmonic balancer, engine block, cylinder heads, oil pan and timing chain cover are also covered only if damaged by failure of a covered internally lubricated engine Component.
TRANSMISSION: All internal Components of the transmission that require lubrication for operation. Torque converter, vacuum modulator, accumulator, electronic shift control unit, transmission case, and oil pan are covered only if damaged by failure of a covered internally lubricated transmission Component.
WORN COMPONENTS: On select policies, components that have failed to perform the function for which they were designed due to wear that is determined to be in excess of the manufacturers specified tolerances for wear based on normal Vehicle operation and maintenance as required by the manufacturer.
DRIVE AXLE (FRONT AND REAR): All internally lubricated Components contained within the drive axle housing, plus the following: locking hubs, drive shafts, center support bearings, universal joints, constant velocity joints (except when damaged as a result of a torn or missing CV boot). Drive axle housing and differential cover are covered only if damaged by failure of a covered internally lubricated drive axle Component.
COOLING SYSTEM: Engine cooling fan and motor, water pump and fan clutch.
AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM: Condenser, compressor, evaporator, expansion valve and blower motor. The following Components are also covered if required in connection with the repair of a listed Covered Component: accumulator/receiver dryer and orifice tube.
FUEL SYSTEM: Fuel delivery pump, fuel injection pump and metal fuel delivery lines.
ELECTRICAL: Alternator, voltage regulator, starter motor, starter solenoid, ignition switch, front and rear window wiper motor and switch, washer pump and switch, headlamp switch, turn signal switch, rear defogger switch, heater/A.C. blower speed switch, power window motor and switch, power door lock actuator and switch.
4X4 TRANSFER CASE: All internal Components of the transfer case that require lubrication for operation.
SEALS %26amp; GASKETS: Seals and gaskets are replaced only as part of repair or replacement of Covered Components. Leaking gaskets or seals are not covered. On select policies, head gaskets are excluded from coverage.
BENEFITS: Instant electronic claims process, claims payment made directly to repair facility, no surcharge for 4x4 or luxury vehicles, rental car benefit, towing benefit, no deductible, transferable %26amp; renewable, 30 days %26amp; 1000 miles 鈥?benefits begin on the 31st day and 1001st mile from the product warranty purchase date, nationwide coverage available at any qualified repair facility.|||unless your buying a brand new "first year" car like the 2010 Camaro
it's not worth the money|||Warranties are worth getting, but you have to do your homework on the warranty company your interested in. Check the Better Business Bureau for the rating of the company lots of companies don'tt pay for repairs when the time comes for example fedlis has an F rating for not paying for their customers repairs. I just avoid all the warranty companies and get warranty Straight from the dealer yea might cost more but they pay up when the time comes|||Warranties like this are never worth the price. It's gambling your money on hoping the car breaks down. If it doesn't break down you've lost everything, If it does break down you're hoping the repairs cost more than $2700 and that this warranty will cover the expenses.
That's a huge gamble. I would rather keep my $2700 and invest it. Then if and when my car does break down I can pay cash to have it fixed. Keeping me in control of my money.
These companies always have a way of denying your claim. You also have to find a mechanic who is willing to work with this warranty company to get his money. If they don't pay him then he comes after you.|||If during the period of time specified, you have 2700.00 worth of repairs done, then it's worth it...
Usually they don't offer an extended warranty on a car where the mfg warranty has expired, or over 5 years old...
and the mileage requirement normally runs to a mileage...like 5 years, or until odometer says 150,000 miles...|||All experts tend to agree that extended warranties are a bad deal.
Way overpriced, most of the price is commission to the seller and very small amounts end up paying for claims because they find any and every reason to deny them and their contracts are written to protect them, not you.
Best bet is to set aside %26amp; invest the money and use it as a repair fund.
I used to do this with everything that I bought where an extended warranty was offered. I would set aside 50% of the cost and with multiple items, I never had a claim. Even years later.
ENGINE: All internal Components of the engine that require lubrication for operation. Oil pump (on select policies), Harmonic balancer, engine block, cylinder heads, oil pan and timing chain cover are also covered only if damaged by failure of a covered internally lubricated engine Component.
TRANSMISSION: All internal Components of the transmission that require lubrication for operation. Torque converter, vacuum modulator, accumulator, electronic shift control unit, transmission case, and oil pan are covered only if damaged by failure of a covered internally lubricated transmission Component.
WORN COMPONENTS: On select policies, components that have failed to perform the function for which they were designed due to wear that is determined to be in excess of the manufacturers specified tolerances for wear based on normal Vehicle operation and maintenance as required by the manufacturer.
DRIVE AXLE (FRONT AND REAR): All internally lubricated Components contained within the drive axle housing, plus the following: locking hubs, drive shafts, center support bearings, universal joints, constant velocity joints (except when damaged as a result of a torn or missing CV boot). Drive axle housing and differential cover are covered only if damaged by failure of a covered internally lubricated drive axle Component.
COOLING SYSTEM: Engine cooling fan and motor, water pump and fan clutch.
AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM: Condenser, compressor, evaporator, expansion valve and blower motor. The following Components are also covered if required in connection with the repair of a listed Covered Component: accumulator/receiver dryer and orifice tube.
FUEL SYSTEM: Fuel delivery pump, fuel injection pump and metal fuel delivery lines.
ELECTRICAL: Alternator, voltage regulator, starter motor, starter solenoid, ignition switch, front and rear window wiper motor and switch, washer pump and switch, headlamp switch, turn signal switch, rear defogger switch, heater/A.C. blower speed switch, power window motor and switch, power door lock actuator and switch.
4X4 TRANSFER CASE: All internal Components of the transfer case that require lubrication for operation.
SEALS %26amp; GASKETS: Seals and gaskets are replaced only as part of repair or replacement of Covered Components. Leaking gaskets or seals are not covered. On select policies, head gaskets are excluded from coverage.
BENEFITS: Instant electronic claims process, claims payment made directly to repair facility, no surcharge for 4x4 or luxury vehicles, rental car benefit, towing benefit, no deductible, transferable %26amp; renewable, 30 days %26amp; 1000 miles 鈥?benefits begin on the 31st day and 1001st mile from the product warranty purchase date, nationwide coverage available at any qualified repair facility.|||unless your buying a brand new "first year" car like the 2010 Camaro
it's not worth the money|||Warranties are worth getting, but you have to do your homework on the warranty company your interested in. Check the Better Business Bureau for the rating of the company lots of companies don'tt pay for repairs when the time comes for example fedlis has an F rating for not paying for their customers repairs. I just avoid all the warranty companies and get warranty Straight from the dealer yea might cost more but they pay up when the time comes|||Warranties like this are never worth the price. It's gambling your money on hoping the car breaks down. If it doesn't break down you've lost everything, If it does break down you're hoping the repairs cost more than $2700 and that this warranty will cover the expenses.
That's a huge gamble. I would rather keep my $2700 and invest it. Then if and when my car does break down I can pay cash to have it fixed. Keeping me in control of my money.
These companies always have a way of denying your claim. You also have to find a mechanic who is willing to work with this warranty company to get his money. If they don't pay him then he comes after you.|||If during the period of time specified, you have 2700.00 worth of repairs done, then it's worth it...
Usually they don't offer an extended warranty on a car where the mfg warranty has expired, or over 5 years old...
and the mileage requirement normally runs to a mileage...like 5 years, or until odometer says 150,000 miles...|||All experts tend to agree that extended warranties are a bad deal.
Way overpriced, most of the price is commission to the seller and very small amounts end up paying for claims because they find any and every reason to deny them and their contracts are written to protect them, not you.
Best bet is to set aside %26amp; invest the money and use it as a repair fund.
I used to do this with everything that I bought where an extended warranty was offered. I would set aside 50% of the cost and with multiple items, I never had a claim. Even years later.
Blower Motor not working, No Heat!?
I have a 1991 Ford Thunderbird with Electronic Climate Control.
My car's A/C Compressor died recently and when it died the car's temperature reading stopped working completely, the controls still work, I can hear the vents open and close but I do not hear the blower motor running at all. No error code is being displayed. The A/C and the Heat worked before.
I have checked the fuses, none are popped. I replaced the A/C Compressor with a A/C Compressor Bypass Pulley.
Do I have to have the A/C Compressor, I called Auto Zone and the man I spoke with said no.
Do I need to replace the Electronic climate control unit with a manual one?
Please help me resolve this issue, it's starting to get cold here and I need heat.
Thanks in advance to anyone that takes a few minutes out of their day to help me out. I really appreciate it.|||Maybe it's the electronic climate control unit that died and the compressor was fine.|||Hi,Steven
There are 3 step to repair blower motor not working error
If you got blower motor not working error then there is a 94% chance that your computer has registry problems. To repair blower motor not working error you need to follow the steps below:
* Step 1 - Download a blower motor not working error repair tool,install this error repair tool.
* Step 2 - Click the Repair All Button.It will scan you pc for Free.
* Step 3 - Then click the Repair All Button again and your done! It is very easy to repair blower motor not working error.
Here are the url of blower motor not working error repair tool:http://www.RepairErrorDiy.com/ttfix-blower_motor_not_working_error-zz0001|||If the dampers are opening/closing at least that's a good sign that the control head is working, my best guess is the blower has failed. If your fuses are okay check the blower motor, given the age of your car this is likely.
My car's A/C Compressor died recently and when it died the car's temperature reading stopped working completely, the controls still work, I can hear the vents open and close but I do not hear the blower motor running at all. No error code is being displayed. The A/C and the Heat worked before.
I have checked the fuses, none are popped. I replaced the A/C Compressor with a A/C Compressor Bypass Pulley.
Do I have to have the A/C Compressor, I called Auto Zone and the man I spoke with said no.
Do I need to replace the Electronic climate control unit with a manual one?
Please help me resolve this issue, it's starting to get cold here and I need heat.
Thanks in advance to anyone that takes a few minutes out of their day to help me out. I really appreciate it.|||Maybe it's the electronic climate control unit that died and the compressor was fine.|||Hi,Steven
There are 3 step to repair blower motor not working error
If you got blower motor not working error then there is a 94% chance that your computer has registry problems. To repair blower motor not working error you need to follow the steps below:
* Step 1 - Download a blower motor not working error repair tool,install this error repair tool.
* Step 2 - Click the Repair All Button.It will scan you pc for Free.
* Step 3 - Then click the Repair All Button again and your done! It is very easy to repair blower motor not working error.
Here are the url of blower motor not working error repair tool:http://www.RepairErrorDiy.com/ttfix-blower_motor_not_working_error-zz0001|||If the dampers are opening/closing at least that's a good sign that the control head is working, my best guess is the blower has failed. If your fuses are okay check the blower motor, given the age of your car this is likely.
Where can i buy used instruments or automation control system from scrap ship in india & Bangladesh?
ODME (ITT VAF, sumitoma, sasakura, jowa, seres, STC control system)m/e remote control( norcontrol autochief 2, 3, %26amp;4; norcontrol telegraph system ,; norcontrol electronic governor 8800, 8800E ); Nakakita, Yamatake, Yokogawa controller %26amp; transmitter; M/E remote Control System ( Wabco, Rexroth, Nabco logic control unit, pneumatic valve etc..); 15 PPM control unit|||Alang Marine Ship breaking Yard in Bhavnagar, Gujarat India would be the place for buying used equipments from scrap ships.|||we can supply all th items your required from Alang Ship Breaking Yard
please contact us for the same at sales@atlasshipcare.com
|||in urugli, heheheheheehhehe
please contact us for the same at sales@atlasshipcare.com
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|||in urugli, heheheheheehhehe
2000 Honda Accord dimmer control failure?
Hi, i have a 2000 honda accord with dimmer control unit not working. I am a tech and work for an electronic design company, we build and design complex electronic circuits for consumer and industrial companies, so basically i can fix almost anything elctronic. I opened the dimmer control unit and there is a motorola mosfet driver for the dimming circuit that is burnt. However that is an industry part number from the UTA Automotive factory. It has to be a Mosfet because drives cooler, but it wont cross to any motorola part. This mosfet has markings (004) and (20N) from Motorola. I believe it is a size TO-252 case. Would anyone happen to know the Motorola part number? Honda wants 300 dollars to replace a 1 dollar part. This would help many honda accord owners to fix their unit and just replace mosfet driver instead of Honda screwing owners for a bad design that they didnt use a proper heatsink... my email is bld_mld@yahoo.com|||Seems the 2000 Accord had a recall on that part. Perhaps you can get that serviced, and see what replacement mofset driver they used.
How can you control a 12 volt DC fan to go on when the temperature gets hot?
I want to install a small 12 volt DC fan inside weather enclosure (containing a security camera) to protected it from the summer heat. I want the fan to automatically turn on at 95 degrees to help ventilate the camera. I can only think of installing a thermostat from an air conditioner unit inside the enclosure. Is there a better way. I have visited electronic suppy stores and can鈥檛 find anything that would help keep the camera cool. (I have only heaters for these units).
Any suggestions?|||your idea of a thermostat is the best option, use standard mecury switch thermostat supplied by 12 volts to the contacts and wire them in series with the fan. I did the same thing for my storage building except i had the 12volts turn on a relay, and it activated an exhaust fan.
thermostat= about 20 bucks|||You might be able to use a typical light sensor. That would come on when it got light enough to turn it on and would shut it off when the light subsided. The amount of light needed to turn it on can be adjusted so that it would not just come on at dawn, but would need more or full light to activate it. When the sun is not there (night) or not real bright, the temperature would be less any how.|||Some computer case fans have temperature control circuits built into the fan. One of these would only need a 12V power source.
WK|||Maybe it would be easier to have a switch nearby and just let the fan run continuously until cooler weather is here and shut it off then.
Any suggestions?|||your idea of a thermostat is the best option, use standard mecury switch thermostat supplied by 12 volts to the contacts and wire them in series with the fan. I did the same thing for my storage building except i had the 12volts turn on a relay, and it activated an exhaust fan.
thermostat= about 20 bucks|||You might be able to use a typical light sensor. That would come on when it got light enough to turn it on and would shut it off when the light subsided. The amount of light needed to turn it on can be adjusted so that it would not just come on at dawn, but would need more or full light to activate it. When the sun is not there (night) or not real bright, the temperature would be less any how.|||Some computer case fans have temperature control circuits built into the fan. One of these would only need a 12V power source.
WK|||Maybe it would be easier to have a switch nearby and just let the fan run continuously until cooler weather is here and shut it off then.
Anyone else ever get so happy after you have finally tracked down a "bug" in your auto,and now it runs great??
After a year of trying to figure out what was holding back my trucks engine power,i finally found out and fixed it!! I am so happy now and my truck runs excellent! Anyone else ever have a problem with their vehicle and could never ever figure out what it was even after having mechanic after mechanic look at it and they couldnt figure it out either?!!?Lets hear your story---best answer!!
If your wondering, my truck needed a new electronic spark control unit.The check engine light never came on so i could never diagnose it.I had replaced so many sensors already,i almost gave up.So i was chasing down a "bug" that would never reveal itself for over a year!Dont laugh,it could happen to you too!!|||Two occasions.The first was when I was in the Army and drove armored personnel carriers.I got to know these vehicles very well but wasn't really a "mechanic" in the eyes of the maintenance shop. The other drivers didn't really think maintenance was all that hot.One cold winter night I was in the field with my unit,we got a call from one of my buddies that his APC quit charging and had no lights and no heat. It was freezing and pitch dark. The mechanic was getting ready to go when another call from my buddy came specifically asking for me. I went with the mechanic in a dump truck and about 100ft from my bud,the truck died.My bud, a former truck driver tells me to let him deal with the truck and me deal with the APC. The mechanic starts telling me I have no business working on the APC and to step aside.After about an hour and a half of him working on it,he still can't figure it out. I asked if I can help and he says"OK wise guy,go ahead and waste my time and give it a try" I start to read some of the wiring diagrams and found that if I bypassed the fuel regulator that it should start charging,in theory.So I did and it worked. The APC started charging and heating.The mechanic says"Dumb luck" and starts towards the dump truck,but before he gets to it,my bud got it running,with no tools at that (it turns out I forgot to switch the fuel tanks and I ran it out of fuel,oops!) My buddy tells the mechanic to "get back in the truck and don't waste my time!" He became the laughing stock of maintenance because a "dumb-*** driver" out-did him. In return,maintenance issued me my own tool chest and allowing my platoon to have their own "mechanic". The second time was when I first started working for a school bus contractor and he sent me after a bus that quit on the side of a very busy highway. He sent me with fuel pumps and other miscellanious parts. I replaced the pump like he told me to but couldn't figure out why it would die after not even a minute. Not wanting to dissapoint my boss,I kept looking for the problem and just for the hell of it,started to blow air into the fuel tank side of the fuel line and heard air blowing into the tank. I noticed that the bus had a half a tank of fuel and decided to fill it. And that temporarily solved the problem because it turned out that the pick up tube had a hole in it and sucked air at half a tank. I was relieved and happy that I was able to get the bus going and back to the shop. Saving the boss from about a $1500 towing bill.|||no, that could not happen to me.
and you never ask me..|||get a 12 pack and celebrate.|||I hate (I mean get really really angry) paying so called experts that don't fix the problem and charge like a wounded bull...
It is worth keeping old cars going just because they are basic.
basic = simple = easy = foolproof = cheap to fix
If your wondering, my truck needed a new electronic spark control unit.The check engine light never came on so i could never diagnose it.I had replaced so many sensors already,i almost gave up.So i was chasing down a "bug" that would never reveal itself for over a year!Dont laugh,it could happen to you too!!|||Two occasions.The first was when I was in the Army and drove armored personnel carriers.I got to know these vehicles very well but wasn't really a "mechanic" in the eyes of the maintenance shop. The other drivers didn't really think maintenance was all that hot.One cold winter night I was in the field with my unit,we got a call from one of my buddies that his APC quit charging and had no lights and no heat. It was freezing and pitch dark. The mechanic was getting ready to go when another call from my buddy came specifically asking for me. I went with the mechanic in a dump truck and about 100ft from my bud,the truck died.My bud, a former truck driver tells me to let him deal with the truck and me deal with the APC. The mechanic starts telling me I have no business working on the APC and to step aside.After about an hour and a half of him working on it,he still can't figure it out. I asked if I can help and he says"OK wise guy,go ahead and waste my time and give it a try" I start to read some of the wiring diagrams and found that if I bypassed the fuel regulator that it should start charging,in theory.So I did and it worked. The APC started charging and heating.The mechanic says"Dumb luck" and starts towards the dump truck,but before he gets to it,my bud got it running,with no tools at that (it turns out I forgot to switch the fuel tanks and I ran it out of fuel,oops!) My buddy tells the mechanic to "get back in the truck and don't waste my time!" He became the laughing stock of maintenance because a "dumb-*** driver" out-did him. In return,maintenance issued me my own tool chest and allowing my platoon to have their own "mechanic". The second time was when I first started working for a school bus contractor and he sent me after a bus that quit on the side of a very busy highway. He sent me with fuel pumps and other miscellanious parts. I replaced the pump like he told me to but couldn't figure out why it would die after not even a minute. Not wanting to dissapoint my boss,I kept looking for the problem and just for the hell of it,started to blow air into the fuel tank side of the fuel line and heard air blowing into the tank. I noticed that the bus had a half a tank of fuel and decided to fill it. And that temporarily solved the problem because it turned out that the pick up tube had a hole in it and sucked air at half a tank. I was relieved and happy that I was able to get the bus going and back to the shop. Saving the boss from about a $1500 towing bill.|||no, that could not happen to me.
and you never ask me..|||get a 12 pack and celebrate.|||I hate (I mean get really really angry) paying so called experts that don't fix the problem and charge like a wounded bull...
It is worth keeping old cars going just because they are basic.
basic = simple = easy = foolproof = cheap to fix
Whats a TOYOTA VIP SECURITY SYSTEM?
I bought a 97 camry with no remote only a key but there is a thing on the left of the steering wheel that says "toyota security" and it has an led light and a mic. (the led does not light up) i followed the led's wire and it lead me to a box under the dash that says "toyota vip control unit. Electronic security system" I know its an alarm but why doesent it work when i lock the doors? I tried looking for a valet button but theres none? Is this a factory installed alarm or an aftermarket? what can i do|||It's a factory installed Alarm System. The VIP is an upgrade unit.
If it didn't come with a Remote or Fob then it's pretty much useless. I don't know if you could even buy a Remote for a '97.
I would just take it in somewhere and get a new Alarm installed.|||The original owner of the car did not wish to be ripped off by paying 450. dollars for an alarm system that you can buy elsewhere for 100., so the dealer disabled the factory system.
You SHOULD have the transmitter which would unlock the doors remotely though.
If it didn't come with a Remote or Fob then it's pretty much useless. I don't know if you could even buy a Remote for a '97.
I would just take it in somewhere and get a new Alarm installed.|||The original owner of the car did not wish to be ripped off by paying 450. dollars for an alarm system that you can buy elsewhere for 100., so the dealer disabled the factory system.
You SHOULD have the transmitter which would unlock the doors remotely though.
Nissan Skyline GTS central locking?
Hi bought a electronic remote control unit to operate central locking from key fob but cannot understand chinese wiring instructions,it is a VENOM unit comes with two remote controls,control box and wiring,my car is 1993 Skyline GTS 2 door someone said as these do not have solenoids I could not wire up remote locking,any help would be appreciated Thanks Bavis in Somerset|||right, if you think of your wirering system, on each door you have a lock, both of these have an electronic box which will open and close the lock, the drivers side one has the control 1, this means when you open or close the lockthis 1 speaks to all the other locks and opens or closes them, when you connect the system you have bought, you need to connect a this to the main controll side only, this will operate the whole car in turn, i hope this helps, its a complicated thing to try and explain in text, good luck|||No power locks, no remote locking, so solly.|||No can do beilieve me
2000 ford taurus SEL aftermarket stereo suggestions?
i have a taurus 2000 SEL and the stereo and the climate controls (electronic) are one unit... i want to put a different stereo in there but i dont know how to do it with the climate control and the stereo being one unit... any suggestions?|||THAT IS CORRECT
there is no kit for your car, no one makes a kit for electronic ac controls
the only thing you can try is to find the manual ac controls from a junk yard and see if that works ,if ok now you can get a radio kit but you will lose your nice digital ac controls
good luck|||you neen to get a dash kit fi you look here it will give you a pic,http://www.wooddashexperts.com/product_image.php?imageid=14673 go to a best buy or ane where they cenn car stero|||Crutchfield makes an adapter for your car. This should make it easy.|||If you have the electronic climate controls (not the rotary knobs) then there's no kit made for your car. Installing a new head unit will require some custom work.
there is no kit for your car, no one makes a kit for electronic ac controls
the only thing you can try is to find the manual ac controls from a junk yard and see if that works ,if ok now you can get a radio kit but you will lose your nice digital ac controls
good luck|||you neen to get a dash kit fi you look here it will give you a pic,http://www.wooddashexperts.com/product_image.php?imageid=14673 go to a best buy or ane where they cenn car stero|||Crutchfield makes an adapter for your car. This should make it easy.|||If you have the electronic climate controls (not the rotary knobs) then there's no kit made for your car. Installing a new head unit will require some custom work.
Where can I get a diagramed book on 1981 Caddy emission gismos and their proper vacuum controls hook-ups?
'81 Cad w/368cu" had used motor installed at a lic. garage. Has been discovered that elec-controled vacuum ports are not hooked up. Two vacuum lines go nowhere. Smog pump was not hooked up to the air management valve and same has ports for (?). Mechanic failed to even install the PCV valve. Can not go back to shop as the mechanic sold it. Have received 4 of 6 books ordered on emissions that helped me fix the PCV-yet, I don't know if it's supply vacuum is direct or whether it is supposed to come through a thermal control unit. Have hooked up the smog pump to the air management valve but there are vacuum ports going nowhere. All diagrams available in auto service manuals appear to be designed for a trained mechanical technician as descriptive terms are abreviated and there are no identifying pictures of "whar" goes to "what." Could use something like "EMISSIONS %26amp; DIAGRAMS W/PICTURES of PORTED ELECTRONIC CONTROLS" as would be applied to a 1981 General Motors 6.0L V8(6-4). HELP !|||I would try getting a GM restoration packet. Call 800-222-1020 and give them your VIN. If that doesn't work, check your Haynes/Chilton manual.|||u can get it fron online book shop offering the books . acn get it fron books.com
Which of these is not an electronic part of a computer?
control unit
compiler unit
arithmetic/logic unit
primary memory unit
I assume the control unit consists of the arithmetic/logic unit %26amp; the primary memory unit refers to the RAM??? ...so my guess is the compiler unit is not an electronic part of the computer...but i'm not sure...which is why i'm asking! =)|||You are correct, compiler unit is not. It is software used to translate high level language code to machine or assembly code.|||Right. A compiler is software that converts human readable text into binary data that can be read into memory and executed by the control/ALU unit. So it's software, not hardware.|||A "compiler unit" would be something electronic. A compiler is software. (Any teacher using the phrase "compiler unit' when teaching about computers isn't qualified to even use a computer, let alone teach about them.)
compiler unit
arithmetic/logic unit
primary memory unit
I assume the control unit consists of the arithmetic/logic unit %26amp; the primary memory unit refers to the RAM??? ...so my guess is the compiler unit is not an electronic part of the computer...but i'm not sure...which is why i'm asking! =)|||You are correct, compiler unit is not. It is software used to translate high level language code to machine or assembly code.|||Right. A compiler is software that converts human readable text into binary data that can be read into memory and executed by the control/ALU unit. So it's software, not hardware.|||A "compiler unit" would be something electronic. A compiler is software. (Any teacher using the phrase "compiler unit' when teaching about computers isn't qualified to even use a computer, let alone teach about them.)
Does Chevy caprice 1991 ac delco radio requires unLock Code?
I have recently owned a used Chevy caprice 1991 . As i am having some problems with my ECM/ECU ( Electronic control Unit), so i am deciding to reset it. I am just not very sure that after un-plugging the battery terminals, would my Ac Delco AM/FM Cassette player requires a UNLOCK Code to starting working ? Its original Delco Radio provided with Chevy caprice 1991. I am not yet sure if that would require an Unlock Code or not. Please help me.|||No............|||No, you won't need an unlock code. My question to you though is this - why are you keeping a fricken factory cassette player? Can you even still buy cassettes?
Ditch that radio and get an aftermarket one.
Ditch that radio and get an aftermarket one.
How do I locate the ecm/ecu in my 2001 monte carlo ss?
I'm trying to save myself a bit of money by locating and removing the ecu (electronic control unit) from my 2001 Monte Carlo SS myself, and sending it in to be rebuilt/reprogrammed. I'll manage to save $1000 by doing this, since the dealership wants $1200, and the garage wants another $60 just to unplug it and use a screwdriver. a mechanic told me it was behind the air filter. I need to know what it looks like and if it's simple to remove/replace. Any knowledgeable folks out there who've done this and can walk me through it?|||its only a square box at the back of your air filter, it says it right on it.
I lost my car key on the way to hemkunt no duplicate key is working plzz help(maruti alto's 2009 icats proof?
we went for rafting and i lost (maruti alto's 2009 icats proof) keys in ganges near rishikesh so and then i got my car towed garage they are asking for 15000 rs ..duplicate keys doesn't work since i searched on nett
The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) of the vehicle also carries a corresponding secret code. The moment the key is inserted and the ignition is switched “on” the code is communicated from the key to vehicle’s ECU.
i have spend 2000 for towing 500 for duplicate key
now 21000 can't take it plz help|||It sure is coded and should be re-programed by authorised dealer in the USA that would cost around 150.00 $|||hey bro.. dun worry.. just contact an authorized maruti dealer or an authorised maruti outlet near by, they will get new keys made for you from the company at a cost of around RS.1000-1500 approx..
The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) of the vehicle also carries a corresponding secret code. The moment the key is inserted and the ignition is switched “on” the code is communicated from the key to vehicle’s ECU.
i have spend 2000 for towing 500 for duplicate key
now 21000 can't take it plz help|||It sure is coded and should be re-programed by authorised dealer in the USA that would cost around 150.00 $|||hey bro.. dun worry.. just contact an authorized maruti dealer or an authorised maruti outlet near by, they will get new keys made for you from the company at a cost of around RS.1000-1500 approx..
Did I damage my engine or it shut down as a protective measure?
In avoiding an accident I hit the bottom of my 2001 Toyota Corolla, damaging the oil pan. After some miles driving, the "low oil" light came on, I thought I could still make it home, which was a couple of miles away, so I kept going, but then the engine just shut down. It kept leaking oil while they were towing it and then in the driveway, the temperature (which I was observing) never went up, and it never smelled like burned oil or anything... I wonder if the car just shut down to prevent damage (Electronic Control Unit 's function) or the engine is damaged???|||If the car shut down because of low oil the noise would have been emence, they rattle and bang quite alot until the engine finally seizes. I have a Toyota Celica 2.0GTi and must agree that the brain is a very clever thing, In cold it does not let me rev over 2000rpm to make sure you don't muck up the engine until it has warmed up. I had to go through deep water when my road was flooded and after a mile my engine just shut down and refused to start, It refused until 3 days after when i suppose the brain knew it was dry enough to start. I had tried drying all connectors, leads, plugs, you name it I tried it.... But toyotas have a mind of thieir own sometimes.
I say if no noise it shut down itself
If noise your engine is knackered.
Get the oil pan fixed and a new oil change and see if this helps... but do not spend the money out first before you get someone to have a look at the engine just in case, it may be something else had been knocked off or damaged.
Hope this helps :) x|||Yes, the oil pressure sensor triggered the ECM because of low oil pressure and the ECM shut down the engine to avoid major damage. You will need to replace the oil pan and install fresh oil. Once the engine cranks over and the ECM sees 10psi oil pressure, it will engage the engines ignition system. Hope this helps. Christopher|||quite possible you might of ruined engine the only way you'll know for sure is when they put new pan on and refill it or they see any damage when they see something in the pan that's no good|||maybe it has siezed up, silly boy, never run a car without oil !
I say if no noise it shut down itself
If noise your engine is knackered.
Get the oil pan fixed and a new oil change and see if this helps... but do not spend the money out first before you get someone to have a look at the engine just in case, it may be something else had been knocked off or damaged.
Hope this helps :) x|||Yes, the oil pressure sensor triggered the ECM because of low oil pressure and the ECM shut down the engine to avoid major damage. You will need to replace the oil pan and install fresh oil. Once the engine cranks over and the ECM sees 10psi oil pressure, it will engage the engines ignition system. Hope this helps. Christopher|||quite possible you might of ruined engine the only way you'll know for sure is when they put new pan on and refill it or they see any damage when they see something in the pan that's no good|||maybe it has siezed up, silly boy, never run a car without oil !
How can I get user car dealer to repair my car purchased 2 weeks ago - no longer road worthy?
We bought an Alfa Romeo 147 from a small used car dealership at the end of September. When the ASR and ABS lights came on this week, we took it for diagnostic testing to a local garage. They told us to return the car to the supplying dealer since the Electronic Control Unit needs replaced and estimated costs are 拢2k - about half the value of the car! Any suggestions on how we go about resolving this or where we stand or has anyone had similar repairs? As it is, the car isn't road worthy. Thanks.|||Have you spoken to the dealer?? Any reputable dealer would sort out your problem because you would usually get a minimum 3 month warranty with the car. Failing that and as a last resort tell them you will sue them if necessary and seek legal advice.
Good luck : )
In light of recent update i would seek immediate legal advice and wish you the very best of luck, the swines : )|||Caveat Emptor!
Go to a solicitor,and see if you can sue for the repairs.|||If you bought from a "real" dealer they have to warrant the car (it's the law). If you bought privately then no warranty is provided.
If they refuse threaten the Small Claims Court (cost you about 拢50 to take out a warrant) which will 100% back you and give you costs (i.e get your 拢50 back) |||Take the car back to the dealer. If you got a used car warranty you should be right, but if not, you still have rights. Two weeks isn't very long. But give the dealer an opportunity to fix the car. Check with your local consumer dept.|||well if ur in cali the dealer has to take back the car or fix it for u because their is a law to protect preowned car buyers from buying lemons. but other than that i would sue the dealer|||You've only had the car for a fortnight, so 拢2,000 worth of problems is unreasonable - you're covered under the sale of goods act, so take it back.
I would suggest that it's more likely to be a sensor fault rather than the ECU though - but that's the supplying garage's problem anyway.
ps this is all part of Alfa ownership - horrendous reliability, especially anything electronic.|||If you bought the car from the dealer as is then there is nothing you can do about it, they are no longer responsible for the car. If you bought it from then with Temporary plates then you need to get in touch with them. Dealers have to place their warranties on the window sticker of the car. If there is no warranty listed then they sold it without a warranty and they also are not held responsible. Always make sure the dealer offers at least a 30 day 1,000 mile warranty, a lot have stopped doing it so they dont have to stand behind their cars.|||Talk with your trading standards department of local council. It probably was sold with the faults. For something like this do you want the supplying dealer to repair it? You might be better off getting it done by the main dealer. If it were my car I'd be thinking about rejection and money back.|||Normally the dealer (if registered company) will give you guarantee for some period if you did not had one from them, take the care and ask for solve the issue or return the money. If they do not provide you a refund or solve your car problem then contact a solicitor (most of them charge some percentage of fee that you win and they do not charge anything if you do not win the case in court).
Regards
Good luck : )
In light of recent update i would seek immediate legal advice and wish you the very best of luck, the swines : )|||Caveat Emptor!
Go to a solicitor,and see if you can sue for the repairs.|||If you bought from a "real" dealer they have to warrant the car (it's the law). If you bought privately then no warranty is provided.
If they refuse threaten the Small Claims Court (cost you about 拢50 to take out a warrant) which will 100% back you and give you costs (i.e get your 拢50 back) |||Take the car back to the dealer. If you got a used car warranty you should be right, but if not, you still have rights. Two weeks isn't very long. But give the dealer an opportunity to fix the car. Check with your local consumer dept.|||well if ur in cali the dealer has to take back the car or fix it for u because their is a law to protect preowned car buyers from buying lemons. but other than that i would sue the dealer|||You've only had the car for a fortnight, so 拢2,000 worth of problems is unreasonable - you're covered under the sale of goods act, so take it back.
I would suggest that it's more likely to be a sensor fault rather than the ECU though - but that's the supplying garage's problem anyway.
ps this is all part of Alfa ownership - horrendous reliability, especially anything electronic.|||If you bought the car from the dealer as is then there is nothing you can do about it, they are no longer responsible for the car. If you bought it from then with Temporary plates then you need to get in touch with them. Dealers have to place their warranties on the window sticker of the car. If there is no warranty listed then they sold it without a warranty and they also are not held responsible. Always make sure the dealer offers at least a 30 day 1,000 mile warranty, a lot have stopped doing it so they dont have to stand behind their cars.|||Talk with your trading standards department of local council. It probably was sold with the faults. For something like this do you want the supplying dealer to repair it? You might be better off getting it done by the main dealer. If it were my car I'd be thinking about rejection and money back.|||Normally the dealer (if registered company) will give you guarantee for some period if you did not had one from them, take the care and ask for solve the issue or return the money. If they do not provide you a refund or solve your car problem then contact a solicitor (most of them charge some percentage of fee that you win and they do not charge anything if you do not win the case in court).
Regards
My car turns off while driving!?
I have a 95 nissan maxima. My car randomly shuts off on stop lights or sometimes even when I would be slowing down my car the car would just die. Now I have changed the alternator, knock sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter and thr ECU, but still the same problem is occuring. My check engine light is on as well and after replcing the knock my mechanic cleared the codes and the light when off, after a bit driving around the light came back and the car started jerking and hestating and on the stop light it turned off, cleared the codes and happened again. Later on i got a new fuel pump and filter, but didn't work. Just recently got a new ECU(electronic control unit) and the car did the samething, but except this time the check light didn't come on. Need help plzz. I'm totaly pissed!|||Spark plugs? Check em all. And all the spark plug wires.|||This could be a dirty air flow sensor. Usually located between the air filter and the throttle body. Good luck.|||What was the code when your light was on?
What does having a faulty sensor mean?
I'm thinking about buying a car from a classmate but I know very little about cars. The owner said that the only problem with the car is that the check engine light comes on and off when the road is very bumpy. She said she took it to 2 different mechanics who both told her that nothing was registering with the computer and that it's probably just a faulty sensor. Does having a faulty sensor mean something is wrong with the electronic control unit as a whole, or is there a problem with a specific control? Also, how much do you think it will cost to fix that problem? Thanks!|||After reading the previous responses there's a couple things I'd consider. First of all, this is a low value car no matter how good a shape it is in or the mileage, and a difficult resell even without these issues. Secondly there is usually a separate check engine light, and ABS light, however on cheaper vehicles, like hyundai and kias, that had the option to not have ABS (Active Braking System), there sometimes isn't a separate light for that. The mechanics would be checking the computer for your engine when really your problem is with your ABS system, which generally a dealership can scan and tell you what is wrong.
My advice, take the 2k and buy a different car like a GM or Ford product, as the parts and repair is cheap and more common, or a Honda if you can find one that has been well taken care of.|||OK lets take it from the top. Do you like this car? A faulty sensor is kind of an idiot light . You can do fine without it as long as you check your oil and radiator fluids frequently. You have the advantage of lowering the price because of the questionable mechanics. But if you just want to drive and not check under the hood everyday, this car may not be for you.|||Like someone else said it is prob. a loose connection on a sensor, you could unplug and replug all the sensors you can find, then check the computer, some sensors are only 20.00 and others are $200.00, its hard to tell which one is setting off the light, even the transmission has sensors, so if it runs fine it may be worth buying if the price is right|||First of all, most check engine lights are an indication of a problem in your emissions and drivabilty portion of your car.Next , if a mechanic has used a scanner and retrieves no codes, this is called a hard code, " loose wire or a blowen fuse and last a manufactures recall.
Check it out, good luck Mrgreg1|||a vehicle has many sensors.
it's hard to pinpoint your problem.
a sensor costs give or take $200.00 not including labor.
and usually, when you change one sensor, you might as well change the other sensor closeby.
but, all in all, it depends which sensor is giving you the problem.
not enough info from what you describe.
you may not pass the smog test.|||problems on a bumpy road sounds to me like it's a loose connection in sensor/wires somewhere. If the car is older, probably some corrosion.
I would almost suggest going to a really bumpy road and see if you can get the light to stick on, then have it tested. But if it is something essential that pops off, I would hate for you to get stranded. CEL (check engine light) is nothing to mess with. You gamble on it being nothing serious, because if it is serious, you're screwed anyway. I would not buy this car until someone finds out what is throwing the CEL on.
does the light go off when the bumps stop? does the car have difficulties when the light is on?
it could be very minor or very big, so get more info first.
My advice, take the 2k and buy a different car like a GM or Ford product, as the parts and repair is cheap and more common, or a Honda if you can find one that has been well taken care of.|||OK lets take it from the top. Do you like this car? A faulty sensor is kind of an idiot light . You can do fine without it as long as you check your oil and radiator fluids frequently. You have the advantage of lowering the price because of the questionable mechanics. But if you just want to drive and not check under the hood everyday, this car may not be for you.|||Like someone else said it is prob. a loose connection on a sensor, you could unplug and replug all the sensors you can find, then check the computer, some sensors are only 20.00 and others are $200.00, its hard to tell which one is setting off the light, even the transmission has sensors, so if it runs fine it may be worth buying if the price is right|||First of all, most check engine lights are an indication of a problem in your emissions and drivabilty portion of your car.Next , if a mechanic has used a scanner and retrieves no codes, this is called a hard code, " loose wire or a blowen fuse and last a manufactures recall.
Check it out, good luck Mrgreg1|||a vehicle has many sensors.
it's hard to pinpoint your problem.
a sensor costs give or take $200.00 not including labor.
and usually, when you change one sensor, you might as well change the other sensor closeby.
but, all in all, it depends which sensor is giving you the problem.
not enough info from what you describe.
you may not pass the smog test.|||problems on a bumpy road sounds to me like it's a loose connection in sensor/wires somewhere. If the car is older, probably some corrosion.
I would almost suggest going to a really bumpy road and see if you can get the light to stick on, then have it tested. But if it is something essential that pops off, I would hate for you to get stranded. CEL (check engine light) is nothing to mess with. You gamble on it being nothing serious, because if it is serious, you're screwed anyway. I would not buy this car until someone finds out what is throwing the CEL on.
does the light go off when the bumps stop? does the car have difficulties when the light is on?
it could be very minor or very big, so get more info first.
What can stop a spark getting from the coil to the spark plugs?
My car uses a hall sender in the distributor (with a vacuum advance unit) and an electronic control unit for ignition timing, and I'm wandering if these are fualty. I'm reluctant to just buy them however as they're quite expensive relative to the value of my car! The HT lead from my coil to distibutor creates some nice sparks when held near the cylinder head, but the leads coming from the distributor to the plugs don't. I have a new cap and rotor arm, and new ht leads which I've ensured are not grounding. I've found that the resistance of the primary winding in the coil is below the range recommended in the manual, but seeing as it's creating good sparks anyway I find it hard to believe that's what's wrong. Any ideas?|||If you have a spark at the coil lead but not at the plugs then it must be either rotor arm, dissy cap, or leads.
You say they are new but they could be faulty.
Probably the rotor arm is faulty ( or wrong )|||Sounds obvious but make sure your plugs are clean and gapped correctly.|||You need 3 things to make an engine run: AIR, FUEL, and IGNITION. Check again, you must be missing one of these.|||Check the condenser in the distributor. Also,are you using carbon cord or copper wire HT leads? (carbon cord are subject to random breakdown ) So who thinks (the thumbsdowner) there is no condenser?|||I'm confused...Get back to me... when u take one of the HT leads off one the sparks, does it create a good spark?
And are u sure that the leads on both sides (spark plug and dist cap) are on properly.... push them down again..
i dont actually understand the situation..
From the coil to the dist cap, everything is ok but from the cap to the spark plugs they r not.
Is that what u r saying?|||Inside your distributor cap, on the centre connection is there a carbon brush, or a hole ?
On some early cars the coil lead connection to the rotor arm inside the cap was by a spring loaded carbon brush, its not uncommon for these to drop out.
Hey presto, sparks in, but no sparks out.
EDIT: Alex, what car/engine is this?, have you done anything to the distributor recently, like turn it? or take the rotor spindle out?
I doubt if you will see a spark just by holding a plug cap near the head - have you tried it with a plug in the cap and resting the plug body on some bare metal?
Are you able to check the No.1 cylinder TDC position? if you can. place the engine in No.1 TDC compression, and then follow the HT lead from the No1 plug back to the distributor.
Note where the lead goes into the cap and then remove the cap and see if the rotor arm is pointing to the same position.
Let me know how you get on.|||Are your spark plug wires good? Did you recently purchase this car used from a dealership? From previous experience used car dealers spray a shiny stuff on engine to make it it look good. That stuff messes up spark plug wires and does not allow current to flow to plugs.|||check the fuse for the coil, or pull the power lead off ,and check for power there.
You say they are new but they could be faulty.
Probably the rotor arm is faulty ( or wrong )|||Sounds obvious but make sure your plugs are clean and gapped correctly.|||You need 3 things to make an engine run: AIR, FUEL, and IGNITION. Check again, you must be missing one of these.|||Check the condenser in the distributor. Also,are you using carbon cord or copper wire HT leads? (carbon cord are subject to random breakdown ) So who thinks (the thumbsdowner) there is no condenser?|||I'm confused...Get back to me... when u take one of the HT leads off one the sparks, does it create a good spark?
And are u sure that the leads on both sides (spark plug and dist cap) are on properly.... push them down again..
i dont actually understand the situation..
From the coil to the dist cap, everything is ok but from the cap to the spark plugs they r not.
Is that what u r saying?|||Inside your distributor cap, on the centre connection is there a carbon brush, or a hole ?
On some early cars the coil lead connection to the rotor arm inside the cap was by a spring loaded carbon brush, its not uncommon for these to drop out.
Hey presto, sparks in, but no sparks out.
EDIT: Alex, what car/engine is this?, have you done anything to the distributor recently, like turn it? or take the rotor spindle out?
I doubt if you will see a spark just by holding a plug cap near the head - have you tried it with a plug in the cap and resting the plug body on some bare metal?
Are you able to check the No.1 cylinder TDC position? if you can. place the engine in No.1 TDC compression, and then follow the HT lead from the No1 plug back to the distributor.
Note where the lead goes into the cap and then remove the cap and see if the rotor arm is pointing to the same position.
Let me know how you get on.|||Are your spark plug wires good? Did you recently purchase this car used from a dealership? From previous experience used car dealers spray a shiny stuff on engine to make it it look good. That stuff messes up spark plug wires and does not allow current to flow to plugs.|||check the fuse for the coil, or pull the power lead off ,and check for power there.
True or false can you help?
1 a primary reason for using an ECU is to maintain a very lean air-fuel ratio
#2 Many modern vehicles combine the functions of an engine control computer and other vehicle computers into a single electronic control unit|||1 false, not lean but efficient,#2 false, even though they are hooked together with a data wire its not one ECU|||1 There is no "primary" reason for the ecu, it keeps your air/fuel stoich, emissions down, and all-round drive-ability good.
#2 They can have any number of abilities, older ECUs only do the primary functions, whereas more modern ones shift the automatic transmission, work with anti-theft ignition systems, cruise control and any other number of things a car maker may choose.
#2 Many modern vehicles combine the functions of an engine control computer and other vehicle computers into a single electronic control unit|||1 false, not lean but efficient,#2 false, even though they are hooked together with a data wire its not one ECU|||1 There is no "primary" reason for the ecu, it keeps your air/fuel stoich, emissions down, and all-round drive-ability good.
#2 They can have any number of abilities, older ECUs only do the primary functions, whereas more modern ones shift the automatic transmission, work with anti-theft ignition systems, cruise control and any other number of things a car maker may choose.
Kawasaki Mule 4010 Faster?
I just bought a Fuel-Injected brand new Kawasaki Mule 4010 and it has 2 hours on it. I want it to go faster than 25mph. I want to know how to tune the ELectronic Control Unit (ECU) to make it go faster. I know it will void the warranty, and I don't care. Also if there are any more inexpensive mods to make it faster I would like to know|||You're not going to get that to go much faster. If you want speed, why didn't you buy a Teryx? The Mule is made to be a workhorse, not a toy.|||That beast was made to pull out tree stumps not go fast.
If you want speed, buy a quad that was made for speed.
If you want speed, buy a quad that was made for speed.
ECU on 1987 Dodge D150?
I have had a couple of Dodge truck in 70' %26amp; 80' vintage, all of which had ECU (electronic control unit) somewhere on the firewall. Generally I replace them for my own piece of mind. When I got this 87' D150, I discovered there is no ECU, so I am assuming the ignition was changed. Can anyone shed some light on what type of ignition I have?|||It does indeed have an electronic ignition system. The ECU is on the right fender. Here is a picture:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/pi/detai鈥?/a>|||it has a single module engine controller
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/pi/detai鈥?/a>|||it has a single module engine controller
CAN messages in vehicles?
How do different sensors in vehicles communicate their messages to a CAN bus? Does each sensor have its own ECU (Electronic Control Unit) that assigns it an identifier and translates its output into CAN language? I'm having trouble figuring out how CAN really works in automobiles. Is there a central ECU that takes all of the information from the sensors into consideration and outputs it onto the network, or does the CAN bus take all the information straight from the sensors, package it up, and shoot it out, allowing whatever application needs the information to access it? Any information would be greatly appreciated!|||The sensors for the engine such as pressure, temperature, and speed sensors are connected to the ECU via analog I/O (input/outputs) pins. The sensor outputs a current or voltage that the ECU can read as a temperature, pressure, or speed. The ECU then translates this information and then sends it out on the CAN bus so that any other ECU on the CAN bus can read if it needs it. There are plans out there to eliminate the need for the Analog I/O and have a ECU for each sensor so it can send out its own CAN messages.
Does anyone knows how to program (BCM) body control module?
Does someone knows how to program (BCM) body control module in Kia Rio MY07 LX my bcm was damaged by water, I bought one from the car wreckers to replace damged one, someone told me it must be reprogramed to be able to communicate with other electronic units such as door remote control power windows e.g.|||you will need to go to dealer.
Fuel Relay overheating?
What can cause a fuel relay to overheat and if its overheating (very hot to touch) what problems could arise.can it effect other things?Like make my electronic control unit crazy?
i have a 2000 opel corsa lite 1.6i.|||Hello
2 things spring to mind
either
The relay needs replacing (Faulty)
Or it is having to work to hard due to the fuel filter being blocked or needs replacing or cleaning (Favourite if you keep running the fuel tank low as this drags the rubbish through from the tank and is the reason for fitting it).
Hope this helps
Andy C
i have a 2000 opel corsa lite 1.6i.|||Hello
2 things spring to mind
either
The relay needs replacing (Faulty)
Or it is having to work to hard due to the fuel filter being blocked or needs replacing or cleaning (Favourite if you keep running the fuel tank low as this drags the rubbish through from the tank and is the reason for fitting it).
Hope this helps
Andy C
Overheating fuel relay?
What can cause a fuel relay to overheat and if its overheating (very hot to touch) what problems could arise.can it effect other things?Like make my electronic control unit crazy?
i have a 2000 opel corsa lite 1.6i.|||bad ground wire on the fuel pump|||It is an x-contact relay and can be replaced with a higher amp rated relay
to carry the load better. Also the cleaning and tightening of your grounds
is important. A clean fuel filter allows the pump to work easier as it is not
trying to deadhead and will help also.
i have a 2000 opel corsa lite 1.6i.|||bad ground wire on the fuel pump|||It is an x-contact relay and can be replaced with a higher amp rated relay
to carry the load better. Also the cleaning and tightening of your grounds
is important. A clean fuel filter allows the pump to work easier as it is not
trying to deadhead and will help also.
1998 Saturn engine light?
i got a 1998 Saturn Sedan and my service engine light is on. THe car occasionally jukes back..or it seems it has lost some power or s, like when im goin 20-45mph it jukes back or seems it hesistates but when its passed 65mph it runs okay. 2day the service light was blinking evertime the car juked backed..and it was really strange. ONly this morning around 7am the light started blinking..but wen i drove home from skool da car ran okay..not good though. I heard it could mayb a fuel filter. I did go 2 one of those diagonosed test that tell u whats wrong with it..it said camshaft switch or somethin..not really sure..any1 know how much that would cost or any other suggestions
da diagnostics paper dey gave me says
Emission-Related Powertrain DTCs, Mode 3:
Electronic Control Unit ID:10
PO340
Camshaft Position Sensor A circuit malfunction (bank 1 or Single sensor)
is this da reason why da car is juking back or shuddering??|||No cam sensor, replace the spark plugs and wires and it'll be fixed.|||The camshaft position sensor will have a lot to do with ignition timing and will do whatever you said. Have it replaced.
da diagnostics paper dey gave me says
Emission-Related Powertrain DTCs, Mode 3:
Electronic Control Unit ID:10
PO340
Camshaft Position Sensor A circuit malfunction (bank 1 or Single sensor)
is this da reason why da car is juking back or shuddering??|||No cam sensor, replace the spark plugs and wires and it'll be fixed.|||The camshaft position sensor will have a lot to do with ignition timing and will do whatever you said. Have it replaced.
I have a 1963 Triumph Spitfire and it has points and condenser, but I want to swap it with...?
I have a 1963 Triumph Spitfire and it has points and condenser. Is there an electronic ignition control module/unit that I can use instead of using the standard points and condenser? Or can I use a different distributor from a later model Triumph so I can use the ignition control module/unit?
Thank you for any help.|||Petronix sells stand alone ignition systems, and also a magnetic pick up that will fit inside the original distributer cap, replacing the points and condenser. I put the magnetic pick up in my '73 pontiac, and it has run great since. I still need to replace the rotor and cap every other year. If you go with the part that fits inside your distr. cap you keep the original stock look, but you'll have to call them to see if they make it for a Triumph.|||used to be a kit that would turn the points into a switch turning the coil on and off//some type of transistor//now with micro chips the new type of kit may be out//then you dont have to fool with the dist
Thank you for any help.|||Petronix sells stand alone ignition systems, and also a magnetic pick up that will fit inside the original distributer cap, replacing the points and condenser. I put the magnetic pick up in my '73 pontiac, and it has run great since. I still need to replace the rotor and cap every other year. If you go with the part that fits inside your distr. cap you keep the original stock look, but you'll have to call them to see if they make it for a Triumph.|||used to be a kit that would turn the points into a switch turning the coil on and off//some type of transistor//now with micro chips the new type of kit may be out//then you dont have to fool with the dist
I am storing my stereo equipment in a storage unit for a unknown amount of time.The unit is not climate?
controlled but i do have the eqipment in boxes.Should i trust that the electronic equipment will be ok? I really don't have any choice on storing my stuff and i can't afford a climate controlled unit.Thanks!!!|||Most of the general equipment will be fine. Just be sure the humidity doesn't get too high, and the heat doesn't get outrageous. Most storage warehouses aren't climate controlled, and neither are the trucks that ship the equipment to retailers.
What is ECU in german?
The abbreviation ECU (electronic control unit).the situation is, i am looking for a ECU for my van, i am searching german websites so i am wanting to know what the german version of the abbreviation "ECU" is, could someone please help:)|||Engine control unit =(elektronische Kontrolleinheit) in german.
Ecu Abbreviated is the same in german as it is in english
say if you want a Volkswagon van Ecu in german you'll ask " Volkswagen-Kombi-ECU" (Kombi means Van!.)
Ecu Abbreviated is the same in german as it is in english
say if you want a Volkswagon van Ecu in german you'll ask " Volkswagen-Kombi-ECU" (Kombi means Van!.)
British Gas Boiler - How to work the programmer?
Hi, I've moved into a place which has a gas boiler, which has a small electronic programming unit to control the system. I can't for the life of me figure out how to program it sucessfully!
Its a small panel about 5x5cm with an LCD screen, a little red slider switch with a clock symbol, Cl, Auto and Timer settings.
There seem to be seven selectable times, but each time I think i've set it to come on at the right time, it comes on anyway as soon as i set it!
There's an On/Off Button which sets the state of the program, +/- buttons to change the times, enter button and a reset button.
Does anyone have any idea how to make this work for setting times of the day I want the boiler to come on and off?|||It isn't a British Gas boiler or programmer, they are a badged model specifically badged up for British gas, that way, when people inherit them, as you have, you are under the impression that you need BG to fix it. Push slider to timer settings, press enter until what you want is displayed, alter the setting and enter again every time you make a change, if it is a very modern roomstat, you may find that you set the temp and the time, they don't have on and off, just start times, so on at 6am till 9 becomes 6am temperature to be 22, then at 9am the temp to be 13, this way the 9am setting won't start the boiler unless the temp falls below 13. If you can see how it comes off the wall to look at the back, that will tell you what it really is, I you look under the boiler control panel (or inside the cover), you will also find out what the boiler really is, if it is a worcester bosch boiler with a programmer I can help you further if I which it is.|||Yes British Gas Don't make Boiler or programmers, I don't think they make anything, Its just another brand with British gas logo on. (often a cheep brand)
Take a picture and take it into a plumbers merchant whom will tell you the 'real' make E.G Honeywell
And then download the instructions from the Internet.
Its a small panel about 5x5cm with an LCD screen, a little red slider switch with a clock symbol, Cl, Auto and Timer settings.
There seem to be seven selectable times, but each time I think i've set it to come on at the right time, it comes on anyway as soon as i set it!
There's an On/Off Button which sets the state of the program, +/- buttons to change the times, enter button and a reset button.
Does anyone have any idea how to make this work for setting times of the day I want the boiler to come on and off?|||It isn't a British Gas boiler or programmer, they are a badged model specifically badged up for British gas, that way, when people inherit them, as you have, you are under the impression that you need BG to fix it. Push slider to timer settings, press enter until what you want is displayed, alter the setting and enter again every time you make a change, if it is a very modern roomstat, you may find that you set the temp and the time, they don't have on and off, just start times, so on at 6am till 9 becomes 6am temperature to be 22, then at 9am the temp to be 13, this way the 9am setting won't start the boiler unless the temp falls below 13. If you can see how it comes off the wall to look at the back, that will tell you what it really is, I you look under the boiler control panel (or inside the cover), you will also find out what the boiler really is, if it is a worcester bosch boiler with a programmer I can help you further if I which it is.|||Yes British Gas Don't make Boiler or programmers, I don't think they make anything, Its just another brand with British gas logo on. (often a cheep brand)
Take a picture and take it into a plumbers merchant whom will tell you the 'real' make E.G Honeywell
And then download the instructions from the Internet.
93 buick century allways in gear?
the car acts as though it is always in gear no matter what position the shifter is in. amost seems as though it is an electronic control trans unit is no working properly. If this sound correct how hard is it to replace the control unit?|||Could be anything. Loss of pressure in the transmission fluid, clutch packs worn out and not switching the gear, or an electronic issue.
Fedders a/c questions. The electronic control type.?
My wife tried to do me a favor 2 weeks ago, on my a/c unit. She took the front panel and the case off and hosed the unit thoroughly. The breaker on the cord Tripp's every time you try to plug it in. I myself removed the front panel, the case and the styrofoam blocks and cleaned using compressed air. I put the styrofoam blocks back together, plugged it in and it worked fine. Ran it for at a half hour, no unusual noises and put out cool air at 66 degrees. I then put the case back on,and the front panel. Once again I plugged it in and it worked fine, for another half hour. I called my neighbor over to help me install it in the window. I got everything secured, went to plug it in and I couldn't believe the breaker tripped again. It's on the same circuit as before, so that can't be the problem. I can't find anybody to work on the unit in this area.|||Fedders i think are not in business anymore. So people will not work on them also the parts were so outrageous you can go buy a new one for the same price. i will just go buy a new one|||Make sure the power is off. The most likely problem is you have water in the relays are usually located in a boxed off area very close to where the wire runs in. Blow that off and perhaps carefully use a blow dryer on it. If that doesn't work you better know how to use a multi-tester and go from there.
I am looking for a real ABS unit for my bike?
i am looking for a real ABS unit for my bike,not those valves from India.A universal electronic controlled system for all bikes. did you hear about?|||i have a honda 250 a very old bike but i love it.I found this ABS unit here: http://www.wix.com/satalarm/locks it's for 12v, it's a very good unit,very reliable but i don't know if they product it anymore.Attention don't buy the Indian valves (they call them ABS)|||I've never heard of an ABS add-on for motorcycles. Some models are available with ABS from the factory. Otherwise, they can't have ABS tacked on later.
Any one else have electrical problems 1997-2003 f-150 what was the problem?
my wipers and interior lights go out at the same time it is not the fuse. also where is the electronic control unit|||1- the turn signal knob that has wiper controls and light functions is a module that controls all that..It comes in one piece.
2- the ecu is in the dash on these|||Passenger side power mirror and that's the only problem it ever had.
2- the ecu is in the dash on these|||Passenger side power mirror and that's the only problem it ever had.
Does electronic pest control work?
We have rats, mice, and possums in our house, and we recently came across an ad for electronic pest control, advertising a gadget costing NZ$159.99 which plugs into mains power and apparently gets rid of mice, rats, and cockroaches in an area up to 150sqm. The ad claims the device sends "short 'pulses' of electromotive force through your home's electrical wiring that drive pests from their hiding places and out of your home". They have a 60-day money-back guarantee, and claim the unit will last more than 10 years.
Has anyone here used this?
Can you recommend it?
And what on earth is "electromotive power"?|||No, no, and no. Oh, and NO! Those things are jokes! They don't attract vermin, but they don't repel them either.
Electromotive is just a created word to sound good to suckers like us who would buy something like this!
But really, I haven't found anything to work better than boric acid for roaches, and poison (or cats) for mice. The electronic poles for moles outside don't work either.|||Not at all. Take better care about the feeding, get this off and sooner or later they'll disappear because they starving of hunger.
franky
Has anyone here used this?
Can you recommend it?
And what on earth is "electromotive power"?|||No, no, and no. Oh, and NO! Those things are jokes! They don't attract vermin, but they don't repel them either.
Electromotive is just a created word to sound good to suckers like us who would buy something like this!
But really, I haven't found anything to work better than boric acid for roaches, and poison (or cats) for mice. The electronic poles for moles outside don't work either.|||Not at all. Take better care about the feeding, get this off and sooner or later they'll disappear because they starving of hunger.
franky
Can anyone solve fuel mixing with oil in the engine of a Land Rover Discovery 1997?
It's one week with the mechanic! He says it's an electrical fault as he tried everything while he says engine is good and there is no starting problem. Tried changing the Electronic Fuel Injection Control Unit once and he said we will try with another unit once again as he could not find any other problem. Can anyone suggest a solution? Many thanks|||have your rings tested, also check for to much gas being sprayed in to the engine or any run off after the engine has shut off,
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Computer Issues with high beams?
I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring 2.4 and I am having problems with the electronic control unit I believe. I purchased 9005 LED light units to replace the existing halogen bulbs and whenever the car is in control of the electronics, the car shuts down power to the LED units. If the car is off, the LED units behave like they should. Now, the question, is there a way to stop the car trying to shut down the LEDs when there is nothing wrong with the setup other than a lower draw?|||when fitting LEDs to regular cars with regular lights and a computer/ecu you need a ballast in the lighting circuit for the computer not to read a fault on the circuit, the straight LEDs do not draw enough power, if there is a ballast it is either not big enough or wrongly wired, if you mean HID the same applies the high voltage leads the computer to read a fault and possibly the shielding is inadequate|||No, the ECU would set you back over a grand but the lights if you switched them back would not cost much. I would switch to the right type for your car.
My car is not changing into gear and it brakes up while driving. It also reve out when driving. whats the prob
It is a 1999 Mitsubishi Lancer. The Electronic Control Unit is OK and the Transmission is ok and the Transmission Filter i just change and the oil.|||maybe a new car would help check your transmission bands sounds like they are slipping|||if you just changed the filter it's not seated properly. Redo it and make sure there's only one oring or gasket where the filter meets the transmission. Also make sure it's full of fluid to the correct level.|||Trany is shot|||DID YOU US THE RIGHT FLUID FOR LANCER U KNOW MITSUBISHI USES A SPACIAL FLUID IF U USED SOME THING ELSE YOU MY FRIED THE TRANS MISSION|||your transmission is slipping. it may be caused by a bad speed sensor, or the trans is bad. next time, do your preventive maintenance before you have a problem: key word being PREVENTIVE
What should I major in college?
I want a major that incorporates everything I like. I am interested in computers, cell phones, mp3 players. I am also interested in automobiles but the college I am transferring to will not accept some of my credits. I am interested in the electrical wiring, electronic control unit, and how technicians tune air and fuel to increase power.
Here is a list of majors that I'm thinking about but am not sure:
Information Technology
Engineering
Engineering/Electrical Engineering|||Based on your stated interests, it seems obvious that Electrical Engineering is just the thing for you.
Here is a list of majors that I'm thinking about but am not sure:
Information Technology
Engineering
Engineering/Electrical Engineering|||Based on your stated interests, it seems obvious that Electrical Engineering is just the thing for you.
Physics question, what is the horsepower delivered to the drive wheels?
The power/control system of an electric car consist of a 48 volt onboard battery pack, electronic control/drive unit, and motor. If 180 amps are drawn from the batteries, how many horsepower are delivered to the drive wheels?
Best answer to whoever has the complete solution
thanks|||Voltage = 48.
Current = 180A.
Power = (48 x 180), = 8,640W.
1hp = 746W.
(8,640/746) = 11.58hp., neglecting inefficiencies in electronics and machanics.
Best answer to whoever has the complete solution
thanks|||Voltage = 48.
Current = 180A.
Power = (48 x 180), = 8,640W.
1hp = 746W.
(8,640/746) = 11.58hp., neglecting inefficiencies in electronics and machanics.
What is the part number for an ECU for a Peugeot 306 Saloon 2002 model?
The ECU is an Electronic Control Unit. My model was manufactured in Nigeria in 2002 and it is a Sagem model|||It will be either SL96-1 or SL 96-9|||all depends what engine and model car it is
What is the design of an Adaptive Bus Emulator?
Typical automotive buses are CAN, LIN and Flexray. The analyzer will monitor and inject frames in an on-line interaction with different electronic control unit (ECU) on bus. It鈥檚 also required to build higher PC interface|||That is an engineering question, you may have to post in another place to get an answer to this question
Where is the ECU located in the 1989 Chevrolet Celebrity?
ECU=Electronic Control Unit.|||This looks complicated. I dont think us here will be able to help you out. You need professional opinion. You can try asking certified ASE technicians here. They have access to all the service manuals and will be able to provide you the exact information you need.
Go to ExpressHelpLine.com and ask them your question. For new customers, you can ask your questions FREE. Its always good to get second opinion before you repair it yourself or pay a mechanic hundredes of dollars.
Dont go stingy on few dollars and get a professional opinion on this.
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Go to ExpressHelpLine.com and ask them your question. For new customers, you can ask your questions FREE. Its always good to get second opinion before you repair it yourself or pay a mechanic hundredes of dollars.
Dont go stingy on few dollars and get a professional opinion on this.
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d
Tech help with 1989 CHEVY Silverado Climate control vent actuators?
I recently had my heater core replaced and afterwards the airflow only came out of the floor vents no matter what was picked.
It really pisses me off when I drive on cold days and the window fogs up like a mother.
It has a push button electronic control and appears to have motor vent actuators as apposed to the vacuum style. I tested the 3 relays behind the dash the climate system uses and they all work fine although the motor vent actuators aren't budging.
I suspect a disconnection somewhere but I don't know where. The dash electronic climate control unit appears to send the commands fine to the relays but after the relays nothing happens. Heat control works fine.
Any ideas? GM Experienced techs only please.
|||the blend door or the actuator that directs the flow of air is unplugged or the physical door itself is jammed...this all has to be disassembled to install a heater core....your system is vacuum driven...chances are its unplugged or there a vacuum line that didn't get hooked up..to this blend door sysytem.....look under the dash on the passenger side for either ...also look under the hood to make sure that the vacuum is hooked up at the sorce...your under hood vacuum routing sticker will show you where the vacuum originates from.....but why not go back to who you paid to do this job?.....you paid for a complete job...why not get it?|||Your wiring is messed up. Follow the harness to see where it is shorted.
It really pisses me off when I drive on cold days and the window fogs up like a mother.
It has a push button electronic control and appears to have motor vent actuators as apposed to the vacuum style. I tested the 3 relays behind the dash the climate system uses and they all work fine although the motor vent actuators aren't budging.
I suspect a disconnection somewhere but I don't know where. The dash electronic climate control unit appears to send the commands fine to the relays but after the relays nothing happens. Heat control works fine.
Any ideas? GM Experienced techs only please.
|||the blend door or the actuator that directs the flow of air is unplugged or the physical door itself is jammed...this all has to be disassembled to install a heater core....your system is vacuum driven...chances are its unplugged or there a vacuum line that didn't get hooked up..to this blend door sysytem.....look under the dash on the passenger side for either ...also look under the hood to make sure that the vacuum is hooked up at the sorce...your under hood vacuum routing sticker will show you where the vacuum originates from.....but why not go back to who you paid to do this job?.....you paid for a complete job...why not get it?|||Your wiring is messed up. Follow the harness to see where it is shorted.
My 1991 mitsubishi galant stalled while driving 3 times over 3 months. one day, the car wouldn't start after d?
my 1991 mitsubishi galant stalled while driving 3 times over 3 months. one day, the car wouldn't start after driving it to work. the electronic control unit was replaced in a shop. the car then had severe hard idling problems. the servo was then replaced. the idling problem was not fixed and is still present. now the car has trouble starting with a brand new computer. .|||Then first and foremost you take it back to the shop and say that the ECU swap did not fix the problem and they should be paying for it.
Have them either fix the actual problem now for free because of their screw up, or bring it to another shop and eat the costs yourself.
There's a lot of components that can make a vehicle not start, hard start, or rarely start. Plugs, wires, coil pack(s), ignition power transistor, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, bad throttle position sensor, bad base idle set screw (back out of position), idle speed control is off, vacuum leak (many come from the throttle body TPS o-rings). There are so many possibilities that it's endless.
First and foremost, when was the last time you got a full tune up (plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter)?
Do you know how to check for vacuum leaks? If so, do it.
Grab a multimeter and test resistance of the TPS, check your coil packs, check your fuel injectors, check resistance of your spark plug wires, check the ignition power transistor.
Get a Chilton's manual, they're quite cheap and will certainly help you out in the long run.
Have them either fix the actual problem now for free because of their screw up, or bring it to another shop and eat the costs yourself.
There's a lot of components that can make a vehicle not start, hard start, or rarely start. Plugs, wires, coil pack(s), ignition power transistor, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, bad throttle position sensor, bad base idle set screw (back out of position), idle speed control is off, vacuum leak (many come from the throttle body TPS o-rings). There are so many possibilities that it's endless.
First and foremost, when was the last time you got a full tune up (plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter)?
Do you know how to check for vacuum leaks? If so, do it.
Grab a multimeter and test resistance of the TPS, check your coil packs, check your fuel injectors, check resistance of your spark plug wires, check the ignition power transistor.
Get a Chilton's manual, they're quite cheap and will certainly help you out in the long run.
Has anyone tried those Electronic Pest Control gadgets? Needing some serious feedback before purchase - Thanks
We live in a 2 level town house with garage %26amp; small yard. Neighbour has birds which have increased mouse population dramatically, plus theres the dreaded cockroach... can't handle waking up to one falling on you from the roof... we do have a clean home, cockroaches are just everywhere these days; I have chemically sensitive grandchildren so need to limit amount of pesticides, etc and am looking for a safe and effective way to control pests. The Cost of 2 units is Au $180 - Being a pensioner I hesitate to purchase without some authentic customer feedback so am looking for people who have tried these gadgets.:|||Hi,
Save your money, I tried them years ago, I swear I had one mouse run right by me after I plugged an electronic "chaser" in,
look back at me, stopped, and gave me a look of like, "WHAT!?"
Hope this helps,
Dave|||Your Welcome, have a good day!
|||you can buy cocky baits for in %26amp; under cupboards from the super markets %26amp; if you are like me %26amp; hate killing mice you can get traps %26amp; you let them go but you need to fix where they are getting in the house|||Those don't work...it's like a disco light for your mice to party to.
BUT! What does work is Bobcat urine...yes it does sound strange but cats mark their space. By putting the bobcat urine down it smell sthe same so the mice stay away. If you do ask.com "how to get rid of mice" you should be able to find the website.
Good luck!|||They do not work, get yourself a cat. As for the cockroaches, a mixture of boric acid and sugar works. There is also a gel that you can put out in cracks and crevises that works great!
Save your money, I tried them years ago, I swear I had one mouse run right by me after I plugged an electronic "chaser" in,
look back at me, stopped, and gave me a look of like, "WHAT!?"
Hope this helps,
Dave|||Your Welcome, have a good day!
Report Abuse
|||you can buy cocky baits for in %26amp; under cupboards from the super markets %26amp; if you are like me %26amp; hate killing mice you can get traps %26amp; you let them go but you need to fix where they are getting in the house|||Those don't work...it's like a disco light for your mice to party to.
BUT! What does work is Bobcat urine...yes it does sound strange but cats mark their space. By putting the bobcat urine down it smell sthe same so the mice stay away. If you do ask.com "how to get rid of mice" you should be able to find the website.
Good luck!|||They do not work, get yourself a cat. As for the cockroaches, a mixture of boric acid and sugar works. There is also a gel that you can put out in cracks and crevises that works great!
ABS light and the traction control stuck on OFF on my Mustang ... Please Help !!?
its kindda long but i really need help so please :)
okay heres what happen .. the ABS light is on on my cluster and the traction control is stuck on OFF .. nothing wont change if i pressed on the the traction control botton :S
its a 2001 Ford Mustang GT .. Manuel shift and apperantly with a traction control
so i took it to tire plus and i dont think they knew what they were doing .. they told me to change this following things:
1-Calipers with pads
2- Brake Rotor
3-Master Cylinder
4-Remain P/B Booster
5-Remove and replace Power Brake Booster to bleed hydrolic booster and the cruise control interferesadd
and even more to change but you got the pic. .. estimate about $ 1,753
then i took the report to the Ford dealer and the guy was pretty nice and seemed like he actually cared because he told me to do it one at a time and he said that he doesnt think the report from "Tire Plus" made sence because he doesnt think the master cylinder and the other things they want got to do with the ABS light
so we run another test and got a new report and thats what the report say :
VERIFY ABS LIGHT COMING ON. PERFORM NESS, SCAN TEST, PID MONITOR TEST AND PIN POINT TEST. FOUND FAULTY HYDRALIC CONTROL UNIT AND ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT. ESTEMATE TO REPAIR $ 2,265.00
the hydrolic control unit it self "HCU" is about $ 1500 from Ford
and the "ECU" cost about $ 800 with the labor for my old mustang when i fixed it .. but they said they ll do everything for $ 2,265.00
but i still dont like the price because i dont really wanna pay that much money now so i went to the junk yard and the guy said .. he ll give me the "HCU and ECU" for $ 150 with a 90 days warranty
but my cousin said those things are hard to put ur self because he tried to do it before and he end up taking it to a mechanic ... is it really hard to do ???
and what report make more sence and what should i do ????
thank you very much|||Ok, first thing first. Have you replaced your brake pads and had your rotors turned or replaced. My '04 GT did the same thing (I had no traction control put the light still came on along with the brake light) and it was due to the back pads and rotors needing to be replaced. Go to your local parts house (hi-lo, pep boys, autozone, O'Rileys) and get the house brand pads and see if your rotors can be turned. I'm going to assume they cant since the TC %26amp; Brake lights appear on your cluster.
This is a very easy job that can be done with a little time and the correct tools. Make sure you get a Caliber Piston Tool, it just snaps on the end of a ratchet and cost maybe $5. This will allow you to collapse the piston back into the caliber so you can install the new pads. Also pop the top on your brake fluid reservoir, this will make the pistons go in so much easier. Once your done turn the key to the on position and pump the brakes until they get hard, this gets pressure back in the lines.
Good Luck
okay heres what happen .. the ABS light is on on my cluster and the traction control is stuck on OFF .. nothing wont change if i pressed on the the traction control botton :S
its a 2001 Ford Mustang GT .. Manuel shift and apperantly with a traction control
so i took it to tire plus and i dont think they knew what they were doing .. they told me to change this following things:
1-Calipers with pads
2- Brake Rotor
3-Master Cylinder
4-Remain P/B Booster
5-Remove and replace Power Brake Booster to bleed hydrolic booster and the cruise control interferesadd
and even more to change but you got the pic. .. estimate about $ 1,753
then i took the report to the Ford dealer and the guy was pretty nice and seemed like he actually cared because he told me to do it one at a time and he said that he doesnt think the report from "Tire Plus" made sence because he doesnt think the master cylinder and the other things they want got to do with the ABS light
so we run another test and got a new report and thats what the report say :
VERIFY ABS LIGHT COMING ON. PERFORM NESS, SCAN TEST, PID MONITOR TEST AND PIN POINT TEST. FOUND FAULTY HYDRALIC CONTROL UNIT AND ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT. ESTEMATE TO REPAIR $ 2,265.00
the hydrolic control unit it self "HCU" is about $ 1500 from Ford
and the "ECU" cost about $ 800 with the labor for my old mustang when i fixed it .. but they said they ll do everything for $ 2,265.00
but i still dont like the price because i dont really wanna pay that much money now so i went to the junk yard and the guy said .. he ll give me the "HCU and ECU" for $ 150 with a 90 days warranty
but my cousin said those things are hard to put ur self because he tried to do it before and he end up taking it to a mechanic ... is it really hard to do ???
and what report make more sence and what should i do ????
thank you very much|||Ok, first thing first. Have you replaced your brake pads and had your rotors turned or replaced. My '04 GT did the same thing (I had no traction control put the light still came on along with the brake light) and it was due to the back pads and rotors needing to be replaced. Go to your local parts house (hi-lo, pep boys, autozone, O'Rileys) and get the house brand pads and see if your rotors can be turned. I'm going to assume they cant since the TC %26amp; Brake lights appear on your cluster.
This is a very easy job that can be done with a little time and the correct tools. Make sure you get a Caliber Piston Tool, it just snaps on the end of a ratchet and cost maybe $5. This will allow you to collapse the piston back into the caliber so you can install the new pads. Also pop the top on your brake fluid reservoir, this will make the pistons go in so much easier. Once your done turn the key to the on position and pump the brakes until they get hard, this gets pressure back in the lines.
Good Luck
I am working on a Pontiac grandam 2002. What is the best way to trouble shoot the abs system. ?
I have cleaned the wheel sensors. It is not operating at all. I was told to clean the electronic control unit how would I go about that.|||You can't troubleshoot those w/o a special scanner, the abs is on it's own computer (not OBDII). It is most likely a wheel speed sensor or bad connector, cleaning does not always work but is the best thing to try first. A shop will charge 30-60 to scan it, some transmission places perform free diagnosis, its the only way to find which corner of the car is causing the problem.
I have a problem with the engine heating gauge on my Vauxhall Astra. Can anyone help me?
The engine heating gauge on my 03 reg 1.6 Vauxhall Astra has stopped working. The garage has looked at it and said that it is not the sender or the thermostat. It could be the Electronic Control Unit but it is probably the gauge itself and have quoted about 拢200+ to be repaired. Are there any test/s that my husband can do to determine just what is wrong?|||Hi there the answer is yes you can test it out.
if as they say the sender unit is ok then the easiest thing is to take out the dash to get to gauges.locate the wire going to the sender unit and check colours you will find corresponding colour at connector block going into dash unit. put a wire from the wire that goes into dash which corresponds with same colour at sender unit. switch on ignition and put fre end of wire to a good earth point gently if gauge is ok then by doing this the gauge will rise. if you find that the gauge is faulty then as you have gone this far buy a second hand dash unit. and fit to car but make sure you get same type od unit. if gauge works then take wire off sender unit and again put a wire from it to an earth point and watch gauge if gauge rises then it is sender unit at fault. try this first anyway just to discount sender unit at first. Jock
if as they say the sender unit is ok then the easiest thing is to take out the dash to get to gauges.locate the wire going to the sender unit and check colours you will find corresponding colour at connector block going into dash unit. put a wire from the wire that goes into dash which corresponds with same colour at sender unit. switch on ignition and put fre end of wire to a good earth point gently if gauge is ok then by doing this the gauge will rise. if you find that the gauge is faulty then as you have gone this far buy a second hand dash unit. and fit to car but make sure you get same type od unit. if gauge works then take wire off sender unit and again put a wire from it to an earth point and watch gauge if gauge rises then it is sender unit at fault. try this first anyway just to discount sender unit at first. Jock
I am looking to find out if i can get a electronic unit where i can down load blueray movie files from the net?
and than play the files on my lcd tv having HDMI PORT. this unit should have a USB INPUT and should have a multimedia player with remote control unit with full functional of all type of video playable files including mkv (bluray) type files, so i can download the bluray movies and play on my lcd tv. Presently i am having a phlips dvd player DVP3360K with usb input facility and HDMI output, but does not play bluray type files, it only plays DIVX and other type files. can anybody help me in this regard. thankyou in advance.|||Yes, I know Philips DVP3360K dvd player, it's a good dvd player, it has a usb port, and supports Divx avi files well, so you just need to use a right software to convert your downloaded blueray movie files to right Divx AVI files, then transfer the converted Divx AVI files to your usb disk to play well on your lcd TV through your Philips DVP3360K dvd player, convert any movie files to DIVX avi files, you can try RZ DVD Creator, easy to use, it can convert any movie files to divx avi files, such as convert blueray movie files(mkv files) to Divx files, just drag and drop your mkv files into rz dvd creator, and select "Divx-dvd" as target format, select your usb disk as target folder, and press START button, you will get the high quality Divx avi files from your bluray mkv files, it also can be used to convert any movie files to standard video DVD which can be played well on regular dvd player. You can yahoo or google search RZ DVD Creator and download it, hope these infos can help you.
How do I convert LG dryer DLE3777W for operation on 220V from the original 120V?
I recently moved from the US to Australia. My LG dryer DLE 3777 W came with me. Bought a transformer, but it still doesn't work. How do I convert it to work on 220V? I'm an electrical engineer, so if I can get a wiring diagram of the electronic control unit, I will be able to fix it.|||Most clothes dryers work on 220/240 AC, which is what australia uses. The heater coils and possibly the motor are setup to run on the higher voltage. It probably uses 110/120 for the control circuitry, and that's what you need the transformer for.
.|||Your problem probably isn't voltage. Radio Shack sells adapter plugs, so you could just plug it into 120volts. But of more concern is the cycles per second, or Hertz. In Europe, they use 50 Hz., I don't know about Australia. There should be a label on the unit saying what it needs for volts, amps and hertz. And motors are sensitive to hertz. Also, the transformer should work. I am an industrial mechanic, and I worked with machines bought abroad. We would wire up a transformer to convert the voltage for heaters, and control. But the motor had to be ordered for the country of operation. I don't think your problem is in the ECU, unless it has some sort of supplying power circuit that's stopping it from operating. As an electrical engineer, I would think that you would have known not to move appliances from country to country.|||Why don't you contact LG here in Oz?
I don't see why a transformer would not have worked, especially as you are an electrical engineer.??
We have 50Hz system, though.
Are you sure you ran it on 120V in US? Not 220?|||Try the site below. I didn't go through the sign on process, so I don't know if it is free.|||sorry, but i fail to see why an electrical engineer would need to ask such an elementary question
.|||Your problem probably isn't voltage. Radio Shack sells adapter plugs, so you could just plug it into 120volts. But of more concern is the cycles per second, or Hertz. In Europe, they use 50 Hz., I don't know about Australia. There should be a label on the unit saying what it needs for volts, amps and hertz. And motors are sensitive to hertz. Also, the transformer should work. I am an industrial mechanic, and I worked with machines bought abroad. We would wire up a transformer to convert the voltage for heaters, and control. But the motor had to be ordered for the country of operation. I don't think your problem is in the ECU, unless it has some sort of supplying power circuit that's stopping it from operating. As an electrical engineer, I would think that you would have known not to move appliances from country to country.|||Why don't you contact LG here in Oz?
I don't see why a transformer would not have worked, especially as you are an electrical engineer.??
We have 50Hz system, though.
Are you sure you ran it on 120V in US? Not 220?|||Try the site below. I didn't go through the sign on process, so I don't know if it is free.|||sorry, but i fail to see why an electrical engineer would need to ask such an elementary question
Has anyone used the electronic pest control, like riddex units?
I had several. One in old basement did nothing. Same for others. Saw on TV news show they are useless.|||If you are talking about the plug in units that are suppose to keep away rats and bugs with a type of tone, then yes I have tryed them, and no they do not work.|||Sure have. They suck.
What is the "Brain" of a vehicle called which controls all the electronics?
Alot of people are suggesting the brain of my truck is going out which I am guessing is the ECU. (Electronic Control Unit). Am I correct? Anyways, Its about $75 at advance auto, But I am wondering, Where is it located and what does it look like? Is it easy removal once it is accessed? If you can give me specific details I'll give you a good rating and pick your best answer. Thx.|||its definitely your ECU which is very specific to engine problems. when you're talking about the transmission acting weird, thats the TCU (transmission control unit), it could be caused by the ECU malfunctioning, or it could be something else entirely causing both units to malfunction. if replacing the ECU doesnt fix the shifting problem but does fix the engine, then id say replace the TCU too. if it doesnt help at all, then theres something else causing these two units to malfunction.
what car is it? on my 2000 intrepid the ECU and TCU are under the hood on the driver's side, under the cruise control module. it should be a silver box about the size of a large calculator or half a keyboard, it will have a bunch of wires going into it.
Good Luck!!|||Usually called the 'CPU' (central processing unit) or 'ECM' (electronic control module)|||ECU ECM same thing. Yea 75$ Is cheap. When you buy it get the haynes repair manual or just ask them to point it out. It is easy to remove on most vehicles Mine are bothe under the passenger seat. of the car and truck. Had a little beater that had it under the hood on the passenger side. Romoving the seat may be required to get the ecu out. Big pain. French fry's and loose change galor. Con some teenager into doin it. You cannot hook it up wrong only plugs in one way. Like the printer cable.|||My friend has a 98 Camero with a similar problem. It'll die while she drives it, then it won't start again for several hours. It's her fuel pump. I can get it to start again right away if I pour a little bit of gas into the air intake (DANGEROUS - Be careful). I do this "priming" a few times and then it'll run.
Have your fuel pressure checked.|||You are correct although mine went out on my oldsmobile and it was ECM|||there is no sdt position of them, some are put under the passenger side carpeting, some are under the floorboard, other times under the hood. usually it is a easy fix, but don't let any static electricty get to it, that will kill it|||to the gentlmen about the 98 camaro try the fuel relay swicth this is a very commin problem with camaros of this year had the same problem my self on my 99 camaro|||you have a broken circut board in the ecu . your request for removal is hard because i have know idea what kind of pickup you have and if you replace it don't for get to pull the prom out of you old one and put it in the new one.|||YOU SHOULD GET THE VEHICLES COMPUTER SCANNED AND CHECK FOR ANY PROBLEMS AS WELL AS CODES AND THEN YOU WILL HAVE A GOOD IDEA ON WHAT THE PROBLEM TRULY IS.
TRY FINDING AN INDEPENDENT SHOP INSTEAD OF THE DEALER OR A CHAIN STORE BECAUSE YOU WILL BE OVERALL MORE PLEASED WITH THE FINDINGS AND THE SERVICE.|||In most cars its called the ECM (electronic control module) It is most likley under the windshield in the cowl area.|||best thing is to buy a repair manual secific to your truck, that should specify where and how to get at your ecu. you can get them at any auto parts store.|||helps to know make and model sir?on fords around radiator,gm,s under winshield washer bottles,bolted to fender.
what car is it? on my 2000 intrepid the ECU and TCU are under the hood on the driver's side, under the cruise control module. it should be a silver box about the size of a large calculator or half a keyboard, it will have a bunch of wires going into it.
Good Luck!!|||Usually called the 'CPU' (central processing unit) or 'ECM' (electronic control module)|||ECU ECM same thing. Yea 75$ Is cheap. When you buy it get the haynes repair manual or just ask them to point it out. It is easy to remove on most vehicles Mine are bothe under the passenger seat. of the car and truck. Had a little beater that had it under the hood on the passenger side. Romoving the seat may be required to get the ecu out. Big pain. French fry's and loose change galor. Con some teenager into doin it. You cannot hook it up wrong only plugs in one way. Like the printer cable.|||My friend has a 98 Camero with a similar problem. It'll die while she drives it, then it won't start again for several hours. It's her fuel pump. I can get it to start again right away if I pour a little bit of gas into the air intake (DANGEROUS - Be careful). I do this "priming" a few times and then it'll run.
Have your fuel pressure checked.|||You are correct although mine went out on my oldsmobile and it was ECM|||there is no sdt position of them, some are put under the passenger side carpeting, some are under the floorboard, other times under the hood. usually it is a easy fix, but don't let any static electricty get to it, that will kill it|||to the gentlmen about the 98 camaro try the fuel relay swicth this is a very commin problem with camaros of this year had the same problem my self on my 99 camaro|||you have a broken circut board in the ecu . your request for removal is hard because i have know idea what kind of pickup you have and if you replace it don't for get to pull the prom out of you old one and put it in the new one.|||YOU SHOULD GET THE VEHICLES COMPUTER SCANNED AND CHECK FOR ANY PROBLEMS AS WELL AS CODES AND THEN YOU WILL HAVE A GOOD IDEA ON WHAT THE PROBLEM TRULY IS.
TRY FINDING AN INDEPENDENT SHOP INSTEAD OF THE DEALER OR A CHAIN STORE BECAUSE YOU WILL BE OVERALL MORE PLEASED WITH THE FINDINGS AND THE SERVICE.|||In most cars its called the ECM (electronic control module) It is most likley under the windshield in the cowl area.|||best thing is to buy a repair manual secific to your truck, that should specify where and how to get at your ecu. you can get them at any auto parts store.|||helps to know make and model sir?on fords around radiator,gm,s under winshield washer bottles,bolted to fender.
VW Golf 97 electronic control module. Where can I find it on the car?
I have a windshield wipers problem on my Golf and I am told that it is very likely due to the electronic control module having a short or something. I am thinking of getting an entire replacement unit from a salvage yard. The problem is I cannot identify what that thing is and where it is located. can someone help me and hopefully be specific where I can find it on the car with a good description. Thank you|||Under hood, center, upper engine area, rear of valve cover, mounted on air intake assembly.
You sure it's not the wiper motor?
You can get part locations from the Autozone website.
You sure it's not the wiper motor?
You can get part locations from the Autozone website.
How does a 2 wire 24 volt ac electronic thermostat work to control a gas fired furnace ?
Have moved into a house where previous owner replaced simple mechanical type thermostat (with mercury bulb) with an electronic unit. Mechanical type obviously just closes a contact to complete the gas valve circuit and so get 24V across gas valve coil.
Obviously 2 wire electronic unit cannot do this because the unit needs to draw power for the electronics.
The new thermostat is giving unreliable operation, am thinking of replacing it with the old unit which I found and appears to be functional (checked with multimeter).|||you are correct, the electronic tstat needs to be powered, some cheaper thermostats will operate on 2 AA batteries(junk in my opinion) or the other will actually be powered from the 24 volts on the unit transformer, verify that its wired correctly, is this just a furnace or is there also a cooling unit with this system?
heat only:
you should have 3 wires, one wire connected between Rh on unit and Rh on stat, one wire between C on unit and C on stat, and one wire between W on unit and W on stat.
the wires to Rh and C will power the stat, W is the open contact on the stat that will close when a call for heat has occured.|||An electronic tstat works the same way a mercury bulb tstat works. A tstat is just a switch. The only difference is that a mercury bulb tstat uses mercury to complete an electric circuit. Voltage passes through safety limit switches to one side of the gas valve through the tstat mercury and back down to energize the gas valve.
On an electronic tstat the current still travels as stated above however, the "switch" is completed using a printed circuit board.
For the most part electronic tstats are considered morefficient, but you should chanfe the tstat if you're not happy with its operation.
Obviously 2 wire electronic unit cannot do this because the unit needs to draw power for the electronics.
The new thermostat is giving unreliable operation, am thinking of replacing it with the old unit which I found and appears to be functional (checked with multimeter).|||you are correct, the electronic tstat needs to be powered, some cheaper thermostats will operate on 2 AA batteries(junk in my opinion) or the other will actually be powered from the 24 volts on the unit transformer, verify that its wired correctly, is this just a furnace or is there also a cooling unit with this system?
heat only:
you should have 3 wires, one wire connected between Rh on unit and Rh on stat, one wire between C on unit and C on stat, and one wire between W on unit and W on stat.
the wires to Rh and C will power the stat, W is the open contact on the stat that will close when a call for heat has occured.|||An electronic tstat works the same way a mercury bulb tstat works. A tstat is just a switch. The only difference is that a mercury bulb tstat uses mercury to complete an electric circuit. Voltage passes through safety limit switches to one side of the gas valve through the tstat mercury and back down to energize the gas valve.
On an electronic tstat the current still travels as stated above however, the "switch" is completed using a printed circuit board.
For the most part electronic tstats are considered morefficient, but you should chanfe the tstat if you're not happy with its operation.
Stc electronic control board used in a manor house lv11067 500watt power unit?
this control bd sets the on/off and brightness for two power boards with A%26amp;I robotics name stamped on them|||ummmmmm... what?
How do I control how much boost i make?
My car was made with a stock turbo and i have a few mods. I'm trying to figure out if i can adjust the amount of boost i make without spendind money on an electronic control unit|||with different springs.
Does a BMW electronic control unit (engine computer) need to be programmed?
Had issues starting my car so I borrowed an ecu from my friend that is a mechanic %26amp; it started up fine without any programming. I bought one online %26amp; popped it in %26amp; its not working. I contacted the seller %26amp; they said that I need to take it to the dealership to get it programmed. I called bmw %26amp; they said they same thing %26amp; that they will charge me an hour of labor to get it done. Just wondering if it really needs to be programmed since the ecu that I borrowed works fine even though I didnt program it. Thanks.|||What is the year of your car? In most of the newer cars (except for the really old ones) BMW DME's (engine computer module) needs to be programmed before it can be used when new. When bought already used it is already programmed but it can not be transferred to another car without transferring the EWS (antitheft module) also, that is except for the older cars.|||Yes, it DOES need to be programmed!|||It must be programmed to the car and in many cases, it cannot be reprogrammed after it has been installed. Most used modules will never work with any other car than the one it was first programmed in.
Nissan Micra owners (2002 onwards) - had problem with ignition or ECU ? (Electronic Control Unit)?
My Micra is only 3 years old, yet suddenly one morning 2 weeks ago it wouldn't start. It started later in the day. Then one morning the intelligent key didn't work, I couldn't get in the car. I got in using manual key but again car didn't start. Just a click, no turn over. Again it was Ok later in day. Next day, the same. Local garage couldn't fix it. I took it to main dealer. They fixed it. Something to do with the communication between electronics and immobiliser? Cost 拢90. Two days later, same problem. Garage said whole new ECU now needed, by doing previous repair they were trying to keep cost down by only replacing small part but whole ECU needed replacing. Cost 拢370. Another mechanic then told me there was a recall on some Micras - a faulty ignition. My Micra is 1.2 SE, April 2003.|||If there was a recall on the ECU, the dealership should have the notice on it. Take it to a dealership and have them check it for you.
If there is a recall, it shouldn't cost you anything.
Hope this helps.
Master tech 40 yrs.|||All new shape micras have been called in to have the ignition switch replaced, just had mine done even though it was not giving any problems, the work was free of charge. Take the car to any nissan agent.|||There is a recall on ignition switches on k12 micras and more than likely the garage will have plugged your car into consult 2 and it would have shown a fault code and then they have a set procedure they would have followed(matrix) The dealer would have been better to have disconnected battery for at least 10 mins and the re-booted system and then used consult again ensuring the NATS card was used and navigated to the BCM, right handle and started the test and it points to the control unit which is not receiving start signal. Most of the time its the earth connections which are bad for corroding infact when they built these horror cars they did not use the proper connectors and some of the earth points are not earthed ie not making a metal connection. Battery, gearbox, engine bay bulkhead, rear of engine, alternator area and under dash have earth connections which are clearly not sound.
Hope this helps.|||There was a recall. I ve got 03 Micra and took it in for an ignition check in August. I had a new ignition fitted. They didn't tell me if it was faulty though.|||Would just like to add, I have a Nissan almeera which is about 4 years old. One morning the thing wouldn't start either. This problem remained for months. To be honest I think the NATS system is flawed. I realised what I was doing wrong was. I was starting up the engine to quickly and switching off the engine too quickly. So now whenever I start up I put the ignition in to electronics for about 10sec and then turn the engine on, then when I switch off I put the Ignition in to electronics for about 10secs and then turn the engine fully off. Since Ive been doing this Ive not had a problem. I think the designers incorporate things like this in to their designs so the dealers can make a bit more money out of the repairs. Sorry you've had your problems.
If there is a recall, it shouldn't cost you anything.
Hope this helps.
Master tech 40 yrs.|||All new shape micras have been called in to have the ignition switch replaced, just had mine done even though it was not giving any problems, the work was free of charge. Take the car to any nissan agent.|||There is a recall on ignition switches on k12 micras and more than likely the garage will have plugged your car into consult 2 and it would have shown a fault code and then they have a set procedure they would have followed(matrix) The dealer would have been better to have disconnected battery for at least 10 mins and the re-booted system and then used consult again ensuring the NATS card was used and navigated to the BCM, right handle and started the test and it points to the control unit which is not receiving start signal. Most of the time its the earth connections which are bad for corroding infact when they built these horror cars they did not use the proper connectors and some of the earth points are not earthed ie not making a metal connection. Battery, gearbox, engine bay bulkhead, rear of engine, alternator area and under dash have earth connections which are clearly not sound.
Hope this helps.|||There was a recall. I ve got 03 Micra and took it in for an ignition check in August. I had a new ignition fitted. They didn't tell me if it was faulty though.|||Would just like to add, I have a Nissan almeera which is about 4 years old. One morning the thing wouldn't start either. This problem remained for months. To be honest I think the NATS system is flawed. I realised what I was doing wrong was. I was starting up the engine to quickly and switching off the engine too quickly. So now whenever I start up I put the ignition in to electronics for about 10sec and then turn the engine on, then when I switch off I put the Ignition in to electronics for about 10secs and then turn the engine fully off. Since Ive been doing this Ive not had a problem. I think the designers incorporate things like this in to their designs so the dealers can make a bit more money out of the repairs. Sorry you've had your problems.
Would the electronic climate control out of a 92 Fairlane work in a 92 Falcon?
would the electronic climate control unit out of a fairlane work in a falcon, or do they have differant connectors at the back of the unit?|||same car base.
About ECU(Electronic Control Unit)?
I want to find a complete info about ECU and it's diary.
But I could'nt find any compete thing yet,
Can you help me with this problem?
Any webpage or article.!|||You need to specify which vehicle the ECU is for. If all you are looking for is diagnostic codes, most auto supply houses sell a tool to read the codes from the ECU. If you are talking about the "crash buffer" that's a more complicated matter.
You might start by doing a search for ODBII. You will probably follow some links there to other protocols if it doesn't match your vehicle.
But I could'nt find any compete thing yet,
Can you help me with this problem?
Any webpage or article.!|||You need to specify which vehicle the ECU is for. If all you are looking for is diagnostic codes, most auto supply houses sell a tool to read the codes from the ECU. If you are talking about the "crash buffer" that's a more complicated matter.
You might start by doing a search for ODBII. You will probably follow some links there to other protocols if it doesn't match your vehicle.
The touch pad on our whirlpool range stopped working. replaced the electronic control. pad still doesn't work.?
the stove is only 2 yrs old. the touch pad that operates the oven, timer,clock suddenly stopped working. the tech said it was the electronic control unit, which we ordered. but just replaced and it still doesn't work. there is power there but nothing happens when you press the key pad.|||The first question I have is has a liquid been spilled on the electronics in the range? Electronic range controls can easily be damaged by spills, requiring replacement. Did you replace the touch pad or the curcuit board, I usually replace both.
What safety factors should i observe when working on a vehicle eqiupped with an electronic control unit.?
disconnecting battery should be first and then if your working on the fuel system remember fuel pressure on a EFI car can be very high so be carefull and where safety glasses .|||beware if your vehicle is a 1996 or newer gm with a factory theft system; disconnecting the battery may put your car or truck in theft mode and will not start again untill you flash the computer at the dealership.|||disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery should pretty much prevent any ECU issues, not that they would really be present anyway.|||Not getting shocked...
Does this help any?
Does this help any?
What does1flick of red n3flicks of green mean on a ca20 engins electronic control unit?
I do believe it is oxygen sensor circuit open. so that would mean your o2 sensor is fudged up.
98 Ranger leaking from electronic hydraulic control unit...?
Two issues with this truck. I believe the alternator is shot because the battery keeps dying. When I jump it it does run for a while and did charge a few times when engine is revved. Is this likely the case?
Leaking from where the two brake tubes enter into the electronic hydraulic control unit (hydraulic assembly?). Is this a sign that this unit needs to be replaced? Why would it leak from where the tubes enter the unit?
Thanks for all of your answers.|||Altenators will not charge a dead battery,altenators will maintain battery charge,before replacing ALT charge the battery to completely full,then see if it goes dead.
If it leaks where the tubes go into the assy try tightening the tubes,it's unlikely that it's the hydraulic unit that's at fault.|||Check the voltage of the battery with the engine running at idle with a voltmeter. You should be getting 13.5 to 14 volts. Less than that, and your alternator has failed. Regarding the HCU, is it your ABS HCU you are referring to? Brake fluid leaks from the HCU itself are rare, so I would check to see if the lines aren't rusted through. Hope this helps.|||The alternator should be charging at 14.5 volts. If it is not, then there is a problem with your charging system. As far as the tubes leaking, tighten the fittings. If still leaks, may need to replace the lines. Or reflare the ends of the lines.
Leaking from where the two brake tubes enter into the electronic hydraulic control unit (hydraulic assembly?). Is this a sign that this unit needs to be replaced? Why would it leak from where the tubes enter the unit?
Thanks for all of your answers.|||Altenators will not charge a dead battery,altenators will maintain battery charge,before replacing ALT charge the battery to completely full,then see if it goes dead.
If it leaks where the tubes go into the assy try tightening the tubes,it's unlikely that it's the hydraulic unit that's at fault.|||Check the voltage of the battery with the engine running at idle with a voltmeter. You should be getting 13.5 to 14 volts. Less than that, and your alternator has failed. Regarding the HCU, is it your ABS HCU you are referring to? Brake fluid leaks from the HCU itself are rare, so I would check to see if the lines aren't rusted through. Hope this helps.|||The alternator should be charging at 14.5 volts. If it is not, then there is a problem with your charging system. As far as the tubes leaking, tighten the fittings. If still leaks, may need to replace the lines. Or reflare the ends of the lines.
Electronic Control Unit (ECU) life span ?
I own a Ford Focus 1.8 petrol Ghia 1999 reg.
I read somewhere that the engine ECU lasts for about 3 - 5 years. Can someone please clarity roughly how long / number of miles I can expect it to last ?|||it should outlive ur motor, no reason for it to burn out,|||There is no real set limit. It depends on how it is used and abused. My last vehicle lasted 500,000 miles and no electronic problems (ecu's or sensors). This new one had two sensors fail under warranty (now has over 200,000 miles). So the 3-5 years means it should last what they think you'll own the car for and then trade for another.|||I'm not sure about ECU on Fords, but i drove a Vauxhall for over 18,000 miles and a Honda that did 210,000 miles neither of which had the ECU replaced.|||ECU's are made to withstand a lot of abuse. Dust, vibrations, heat extremes and high electrical noises. ECU damage is usually caused by faults with other components such as electrical shorts, or physical damage such as water.
As such, an ECU will, as mentioned by others, outlast the car.|||There is no reason why you should worry about this, normally the ecu will out last the rest of the car.
Ja.|||It's an electronic component so should last indefinately.(No moving parts to wear out) You can get rogue ones though! My wifes Ford Ka E.C.U failed at 14000miles! Ford warranty didn't want to know! The Ka was three weeks over warranty!
It cost me the Princely sum of 拢563!!!! I was really p*ssed off!
I wouldn't worry about it too much as It doesn't seem to be a common failure!
I read somewhere that the engine ECU lasts for about 3 - 5 years. Can someone please clarity roughly how long / number of miles I can expect it to last ?|||it should outlive ur motor, no reason for it to burn out,|||There is no real set limit. It depends on how it is used and abused. My last vehicle lasted 500,000 miles and no electronic problems (ecu's or sensors). This new one had two sensors fail under warranty (now has over 200,000 miles). So the 3-5 years means it should last what they think you'll own the car for and then trade for another.|||I'm not sure about ECU on Fords, but i drove a Vauxhall for over 18,000 miles and a Honda that did 210,000 miles neither of which had the ECU replaced.|||ECU's are made to withstand a lot of abuse. Dust, vibrations, heat extremes and high electrical noises. ECU damage is usually caused by faults with other components such as electrical shorts, or physical damage such as water.
As such, an ECU will, as mentioned by others, outlast the car.|||There is no reason why you should worry about this, normally the ecu will out last the rest of the car.
Ja.|||It's an electronic component so should last indefinately.(No moving parts to wear out) You can get rogue ones though! My wifes Ford Ka E.C.U failed at 14000miles! Ford warranty didn't want to know! The Ka was three weeks over warranty!
It cost me the Princely sum of 拢563!!!! I was really p*ssed off!
I wouldn't worry about it too much as It doesn't seem to be a common failure!
Do ABS and ESC systems have seperate electronic control units?
For the most part, does the electronic stability control system and anti-lock braking system have their own control units in the typical car, or are they shared?
Thanks!|||Yes.|||The ABS and ESC systems use all of the ABS speed sensors and ABS hydraulic control unit for control of the car. Most vehicles have all of this built into one unit, however, some cars do have seperate ABS and ESC control modules along with seperate yaw/pitch sensors.|||They share some sensors, and the ABS sensors installed on the wheels are shared with the other systems like stability control, as well as traction control and EBD and BA also.|||As far as I am aware they have the same controls. www.drivinglessonsintensive.co.uk
Thanks!|||Yes.|||The ABS and ESC systems use all of the ABS speed sensors and ABS hydraulic control unit for control of the car. Most vehicles have all of this built into one unit, however, some cars do have seperate ABS and ESC control modules along with seperate yaw/pitch sensors.|||They share some sensors, and the ABS sensors installed on the wheels are shared with the other systems like stability control, as well as traction control and EBD and BA also.|||As far as I am aware they have the same controls. www.drivinglessonsintensive.co.uk
Where can i find a electronic control unit?
what kind of a ca, year and model|||depending on what car. check your manual|||In the foriegn cars I have worked on it is a box under the passenger seat
VW PASSAT 2.0 (1999) needs new ECU (Electronic Control Unit) - how much will it cost? Where to get it done?
The under bonnet drain where the rainwater flushes through got blocked with leaves etc a couple of months ago and the inside passenger foot well of the Passat filled with copious puddles of water.
Since then, my electric windows, central locking and all interior/boot/ lights have not been working. The fuses are all fine and have been thoroughly checked by myself and a mechanic.
I have been informed that the Convenience System - Electronic Control Unit (ECU) will need replacing, which involves removing the passenger side front seat and lifting up the carpet trim.
Can anyone help out with a reliable and honest mechanic who won't charge me the earth in labour?? I hear that the ECU itself is relatively inexpensive but it is a "labour-intensive" task.
I am in Uxbridge area of Middlesex (UB1/UB2) so anywhere within 5-10 mile radius of that would be great.
Any idea of the overall cost??
Many thanks in advance!|||As above, labour charges should be minimal, AS LONG as the connectors to the ECU haven't become too corroded by the water.
Look here;
http://www.which-local.co.uk/
for good independently recommended garages.
It may well be worth getting a second hand ecu - the new part may well be staggeringly expensive from a dealer, but again, a decent garage should advise you further %26amp; source used parts.|||You can get a good ECU from a Scrapyard. Click onto !St, choice Spares and see if they can help you. Just enter your details, and they will get in touch by E mail. Its 1st choice spares (all Guarenteed)|||The part will be the most expensive piece of this and labour not the real concern.
Since then, my electric windows, central locking and all interior/boot/ lights have not been working. The fuses are all fine and have been thoroughly checked by myself and a mechanic.
I have been informed that the Convenience System - Electronic Control Unit (ECU) will need replacing, which involves removing the passenger side front seat and lifting up the carpet trim.
Can anyone help out with a reliable and honest mechanic who won't charge me the earth in labour?? I hear that the ECU itself is relatively inexpensive but it is a "labour-intensive" task.
I am in Uxbridge area of Middlesex (UB1/UB2) so anywhere within 5-10 mile radius of that would be great.
Any idea of the overall cost??
Many thanks in advance!|||As above, labour charges should be minimal, AS LONG as the connectors to the ECU haven't become too corroded by the water.
Look here;
http://www.which-local.co.uk/
for good independently recommended garages.
It may well be worth getting a second hand ecu - the new part may well be staggeringly expensive from a dealer, but again, a decent garage should advise you further %26amp; source used parts.|||You can get a good ECU from a Scrapyard. Click onto !St, choice Spares and see if they can help you. Just enter your details, and they will get in touch by E mail. Its 1st choice spares (all Guarenteed)|||The part will be the most expensive piece of this and labour not the real concern.
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